Sommelier Daniele Bergami: Emilia-Romagna Wines
Interview by Lorena Turrini - March 1, 2004

The subject of this month's meeting with the Scuola di Serramazzoni (Regional School for Hotel and Restaurant Management) are the Emilia-Romagna wines.

We met with sommelier Daniele Bergami to whom we asked the following questions:

D.

What are the main wine denominations in Emilia-Romagna?

R.

As in many other Italian wine regions, all the official denominations, DOCG, DOC, IGT and "VTD", are produced. "VTD", or the denomination of "Table Wine" however, can be deceiving, as often these wines are of very good quality. First of all, among Emilia-Romagna wines, we must count the Albana di Romagna, which was the first Italian wine to be awarded the DOCG denomination in October 1987. Then there are 20 DOC wines, which are produced mostly in the hilly areas of the Emilia-Romagna Apennines, from the outskirts of Piacenza to the Colline Riminesi (the Rimini Hills) along with a great variety of IGT and VTD wines.

D.

What are the main characteristic of these wines?

R.

Here we have mostly young, fresh wines, made for early consumption. The alcohol content ranges from medium to well-structured, full bodied wines. Some areas within the region are especially good at producing quality wines characterized by good body, strength and are able to age gracefully.

D.

Which wines do you think are of the best quality among the wines that you mentioned?

R.

Nationally, there a general perception of medium quality about the Emilia-Romagna wines. However, those who know the area and its products well, know that there are many competitive wines which are undervalued, and are a well kept secret. In addition, many restaurateurs tend to evaluate more wines produced in other regions, overlooking the regional production, which is one of the main resources of the area.

D.

Are Emilian wines produced with only native grapes?

R.

No, they are not, though the great preponderance are made from native grapes. Thus, the Sangiovese, Albana, Fortana, Trebbiano, Bombino Bianco, used to made the Pagadebit, Montù, Ortrugo, Pignoletto and all the varieties of Lambrusco grapes, are used to make wines unique to the region.

D.

Is it possible to make distinctions about wines based upon the production areas?

R.

A geographic distinction, severely regulated by the Normative Vitivinicole Nazionali e Comunitarie (National and European Wine-Making Rules). This provision defines and protects wine quality by strictly defining the areas assigned to growing native vines and which are apt to grow authorized vines, based upon territorial characteristics.

D.

Are there organic wineries and what is the difference between their wines an the "regular" ones?

R.

There are several commercial farms that have been growing products for several years according to the Disciplinari di Produzione dell'Agricoltura Biologica (Rules for Organic Agricultural Production). As we know, it is possible to produce organic wines by using only grapes grown without using fertilizers or other chemical products. In addition, the use of additives or other inhancing agents is forbidden during the winemaking process. There is a growing interests in organic wines, and is bringing back to market the flavors typical of original products that bring our senses back to the past.

D.

Is there a return to the production of "ancient" products made from "ancient" grapes?

R.

All native vines can be defined "ancient". There are, though, ancient natural vines which have not yet been cultivated or classified, with characteristics not recognizable in vines that have been classified so far.

D.

What is the "Primitivo di Manduria"?

R.

It is an excellent wine from Puglia, winey when young, but robust with good body when aged, it has medium to medium-high alcohol content. There is also the very interesting Passito da Primitivo di Manduria, perfect to pair with pastries and chocolate.

D.

Are there associations dedicated to the guardianship of wines?

R.

Certainly, there are Winery Consortiums that produce, bottle and market wines which are very attentive to the evaluation, quality and distribution of wine both nationally and overseas.

D.

Is there wine tourism to speak of in Emilia Romagna?

i

Definitely! "Le Strade dei Vini e dei Sapori" (The Wine and Flavor Roads) is a project financed by Emilia-Romagna's Assessorati Regionali all’Agricoltura e al Turismo (Regional Agricultural and Tourism Council). There are 11 associations within the nine Emilia-Romagna provinces, which were created with the goal of promoting wine and typical products by organizing historic, traditional, cultural and environmental itineraries. They are:

  • Strade dei vini e dei sapori dei Colli Piacentini (Wine and Flavor Roads of the Piacenza Hills)
  • Strade del Culatello di Zibello (Roads of the Culatello [type of salami] from Zibello)
  • Strade del prosciutto e del vino dei Colli di Parma (Ham and wine roads of the Parma Hills)
  • Strade del fungo porcino di Borgotaro (Porcino mushroom roads of Borgotaro)
  • Strade dei vini e dei sapori Colline di Scandiano e di Canossa (Wine and Flavor Roads of the Scandiano and Canossa Hills)
  • Strade dei vini e dei sapori Città, Castelli, Ciliegi (Wine and Flavor Roads of Cities, Castles and Cherries)
  • Strade dei vini e dei sapori provincia di Ferrara (Wine and Flavor Roads of Ferrara Province)
  • Strade del Sangiovese e dei sapori delle Colline di Faenza ((Sangiovese and Flavor Roads of the Faenza Hills)
  • Strade dei Colli di Imola (Imola Hills Roads)
  • Strade dei vini e dei sapori dei Colli di Forlì e Cesena (Wine and Flavor Roads of the Forlì and Cesena Hills)
  • Strada dei vini e dei sapori dei Colli di Rimini (Wine and Flavor Roads of the Rimini Hills)

D.

Could you suggest some happy pairings of typical wines with the rich, traditional Emilia-Romagna cuisine?

R.

Many historic pairings are part of the traditional culture. A typically regional food is paired easily with the local wine production, based upon habits passed from generation to generation. In addition, such pairings are appreciated by foreign visitors who appreciate a full immersion into the local color. Below please find a list of typical regional recipes paired with local wines:

  • Tagliata di manzo, (Steak from an 18-month old bull) with Gutturnio dei Colli Piacentini
  • Chizze Reggiane (fried dough pocket filled with Parmesan cheese) and Calzagatti (elaborate dish based on polenta and beans) paired with Lambrusco Reggiano,
  • Scarpazzone o Erbazzone, (flan filled with chard, bacon, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, green onion, garlic and lard) paired with Lambrusco Reggiano. There is also a sweet version of Erbazzone, to be served as dessert paired with Bianco di Scandiano dolce (sweet).
  • Piadina Romagnola, in its traditional version filled with squacquerone, a kind of fresh, soft cheese and rugola paired with Pagadebit di Romagna.
  • Passatelli, (potato and Parmesan cheese mix soup) paired with Trebbiano di Romagna or Bianco dei Colli di Imola
  • Cappelletti alla Romagnola, (kind of pasta) with Albana di Romagna Secco
  • Garganelli with canocchie (type of shellfish), with Pagadebit di Romagna
  • Tagliatelle alla Romagnola, (home-made noodles Romagna style) paired with Sangiovese di Romagna
  • Braciole di castrato in graticola, (barbequed chop steak) with Sangiovese di Romagna as well
  • Agnello alla Romagnola, (lamb Romagna style) with Sangiovese di Romagna superiore riserva
  • Tortelli di zucca alla ferrarese, (bigger than tortellini and filled with pumpkin) with Bianco del Bosco Eliceo
  • Anguilla in graticola, (barbequed eel) with Fortana del Bosco Eliceo
  • Lasagne alla Bolognese, (lasagna Bologna style) with Barbera dei Colli Bolognesi
  • Cotolette alla Bolognese, (cutlet Bologna style) with Barbera dei Colli Bolognesi
  • Tortellini in brodo, (tortellini served with stock) with Pignoletto, generally favored by the Bolognese, or Lambrusco Modenese, generally favored by the Modenese
  • Bollito misto, (mixed boiled meat) paired with Lambrusco Modenese
  • Gnocco fritto, crescentine, (fried bread) borlenghi (kind of crepe seasoned with either lard or finely chopped bacon) with Lambrusco Modenese
  • Anolini (similar to tortellini, but round), tortelli, Pisaréi e faso (kind of pasta with beans), Culatello di Zibello (kind of salami), all pair well with the Fortana del Taro
  • Ciambella Romagnola, (ring-shaped cake Romagna style) with Albana di Romagna dolce (sweet)
  • Cappellacci (kind of tortelli) con la saba (a sauce made with cooked wine), with Malvasia dei Colli Piacentini dolce (sweet)
  • Castagnaccio, (chestnut cake) with Bombarda dei Colli Piacentini

In addition, there are many more traditional recipes that can be easily and safely paired with the locally produced wines.


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