Scuola Alberghiera di Serramazzoni – January 2004
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Q. |
How many typical products are there in Italy and in the Emilia region? |
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A. |
In Italy there are 119 typical products and the Emilia Romagna region counts 25 of them. In addition to the D.O.P. and I.G.P. products though, each region has many traditional products which play an important role in the local gastronomy. |
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Q. |
Are the European denominations (DOP, IGP,…) truly effective in opposing the many attempts at forgery? |
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A. |
Personally, I believe they are, though the measures taken to restrain the forgers are pretty mild. |
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Q. |
How much do chefs truly use typical products? Is it a growing trend ? |
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A. |
During the last 10 years there's been a rediscovery of typical products by chefs, especially high quality typical products. Now the trend is is definitely growing. |
Q. |
Are typical products widely used in home cooking? |
A. |
Unfortunately, I believe that in home cooking typical products are used only sparingly. This is probably because some traditional recipes that called for them have been forgotten. |
Q. |
Among Emilian typical products, which ones are a must for a serious chef? |
A. |
Being a native Emilian, I believe that products such as the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Modena, the Culatello (kind of salami) , the Parmesan cheese, the Prosciutto di Parma and the Coppa Ferrarese (kind of cold cut) should always be at hand. Saying this, I don't want to minimize other local products which are the pride of our region. In addition, since I am from Ferrara, I am looking forward to when the 'Salama da Sugo' (another kind of salami) will be among these must-have foods. |
Q. |
Do typical products support a chef's creativity? |
A. |
In addition to supporting his or her creativity, typical products enhance professionalism. |
Q. |
Do the gastronomic TV shows help spread the knowledge and use of such products or rather promote'‘misinformation'? |
A. |
Sometimes the TV shows help expand the knowledge of these products, though such shows should go deeper than they often do, and (the shows) should be led by knowledgeable experts. |
Q. |
Do advertisement of typical products, as generally done nowadays, help or rather trick the consumer? |
A. |
Generally I believe it is positive though, as in many other fields, ads have the tendency to divert consumers. This is true for typical products as well. |
Q. |
Which are the products that you use most? |
A. |
The traditional balsamic Vinegar from Modena, the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, the Culatello from Zibello and the Prosciutto from Modena and Parma in almost the same amount. But other typical products as well, depending on the situation, play an important part in menu preparation. |
Q. |
What do you teach at the school about 'Typical Products'? |
A. |
In addition to the theory taught in the classroom by experts of each sector, a wide number of the public events where we are in charge of catering, stand up dinner parties, or banquets, our creations focus on recipes based on typical and traditional products. |
Q. |
Briefly, your thoughts on the new book "Una ricca terra, una buona tavola. Prodotti agro-alimentari di qualità dell’Emilia-Romagna" ("A rich land, a rich dinner table. Quality agricultural and food products from Emilia-Romagna"), edited by your institute and to be distributed in the bookstores next month. |
A. |
I believe it is a comprehensive book of great interest from many points of view, both for culinary professionals and novices. The publication will be presented to the press in Bologna, Italy next February 26, 2004. |
Q. |
Would you be so kind to offer a recipe including at least two Emilia-Romagna typical products to WineCountry.IT Internet visitors? |
A. |
You bet, here you go. |
Polenta Soufflé with Crunchy Prosciutto di Modena and Parmesan Fondue.
Serves 4:
- 7 oz. (200 gr.) polenta corn flour
- 3.5 oz. (100 gr.) fat from prosciutto di Modena
- 3.5 oz. (100 gr.) parmigiano reggiano cheese
- 2 cups (12 lt.) meat stock
- 2 cups (12 lt.) milk
- 1 cup (14 lt.) heavy cream
- 4 thin slices prosciutto di Modena
- salt and pepper to taste
Preparation:
- Bringmeat stock and milk to a boil, add polenta gently while mixing energetically to avoid lumps.
- Lower heat and cook for at least 25 minutes mixing continuously.
- Cut prosciutto fat into pieces and fry in a no stick pan until crunchy."Dry" prosciutto slices in oven at about 185° Fahrenheit (85° Celsius).
- Coat 4 disposable creme caramel molds lightly with butter. Pour in polenta and let cool for a few minutes.
- Beat cream for a few minutes, add the grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, then frost the serving plates with it
- Remove polenta and center it on the plates then garnish with a slice of dried prosciutto.
- Decorate the plates with either few drops of traditional balsamic vinegar from Modena or cooked Lambrusco di Sorbara wine.
Whenever I use this recipes, I remember an anecdote related to my grandmother.
The recipe is a modification and evolution of a typical peasant dish that used to be served as a main course throughout the Emilia region right after WWII. To this days, I have a shining memory of cold winter days, when the "galaverna" (Emilian dialect for "frost") transformed the small country village into ghost villages, as if suspended in time. My grandmother would mix the polenta with a big wooden spoon, leaning over a copper pot hanging from a chain, black with soot, inside the fireplace, all the while telling me stories about ancient people.
Once cooked, she would pour the smoking polenta into individual bowls, seasoning it with crunchy lard and Parmesan cheese. At other times, she would pour the polenta over a table and cut slices with a cotton thread and then serve it with either a sausage stew or spit-roasted small birds wrapped in lard. The leftover polenta was then sliced, toasted, and served the next day in a big, steamy milk cup.
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