Emilia - Romagna:
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Scuola Alberghiera di Serramazzoni – December 2004
Traditional Christmas Cuisine
Daniele Bondi - December 1, 2004

The holiday season is upon us, and  chef Nicola Scalici from the Scuola Alberghiera di Serramazzoni tells us about the typical Emilian holiday cuisine. This is also the last installment of this series of articles proposed by the Scuola Alberghiera di Serramazzoni.

What culinary traditions have survived into the new millennium?

  Dining Room
  Pandoro, Panettone and Dried Fruits
   

In Italy, it used to be that the Christmas season began the night of Christmas Eve, with the revelation of the tree and the presents under it, and would end on January 6th, the day called of the Epifania, or Epiphany, in Italian. Nowadays, following trends imported from the U S, the Christmas season shows up in the streets, stores and on the doorway of private homes starting at the end of November.

Traditionally, at Christmas time the whole Italian family would gather around a festive table however, nowadays there are several ways to interpret the yuletide tradition, especially with regards to the Christmas feast.

Some families eat "lean", that is, no meat, on Christmas Eve and celebrate with a feast on the day of Christmas. Others have a family feast the evening before Christmas, while still others, enjoy the big celebration the afternoon of Christmas Day in order to include friends in  addition to family. Finally, there are folks who, in order to celebrate traditionally with friends separately from the 'official' family celebration, organize a 'Christmas Banquet' a week in advance, respecting however the traditional menu and decorations as well as the typical exchange of presents and traditional toasts.

The seafood that is traditionally served as a first course in many parts of Italy can be capitone (a kind of large eel), marinated eel, and stockfish, but mussels and shellfish may be added. Afterwards, in Emilia it is time for either the tortellini in brodo or a wonderful risotto, followed by the main meat courses that usually consist of broiled capon and turkey.

The end to this gastronomic indulgence is signaled by abundant fruits and desserts. The panettone, though originally from Milan, is now part of the overall Italian tradition, and the same can be said of the light, velvety pandoro. Nougat and nut brittle, along with a variety of pastries, are served with dried fruits, oranges and tangerines.

The apple, however, reminiscent of original sin, is traditionally banned from the festivities of this season.


What is typical of the Emilia Romagna tradition?

Seafood is mandatory on Christmas Eve, thus it is common to serve seafood soups, cioppino, capitone, codfish, eel, pasta with beans and seafood, and other similar entrees.

Christmas Day though, is the time to live out our food fantasies according to individual taste.

The Primi:

  •   Tortellini in brodo
      Tortellini in broth
    Cappelletti (filled with 4 fresh cheeses and sprinkled with grated lemon skin and candied cedar)
  • Tortellini in brodo
  • Agnolini or ravioli (typical of Parma)
  • Pappardelle con gli sbecchi (sbecchi defines the way the dough is cut) in broth
  • Fresh tagliolini in broth
  • Maccheroni al pettine (sometimes called Garganelli) with ragù
  • Tagliatelle
  • Pappardelle
  • Green lasagna Bolognese style
  • Baked pasta

Between the primi (pasta and/or soup entrees) and the secondi (main courses) it is traditional to serve boiled meat with homemade sauces.

The Secondi:

  •   Zampone
      Zampone from Modena
    Mixed roasted meats
  • Capon
  • Rabbit
  • Lamb
  • White fritters as side dishes (fried sweet cream)
  • Fried meats, brains, etc.
  • Mixed boiled meats (cotechino (kind of salami that must be cooked), zampone (pig foot), salama da sugo)

Desserts:

  •   Crostata
      Crostata
    Zuppa inglese
  • Raviole con saba
  • Fried or baked tortelli
  • Sweet peaches (marinated with dessert liqueur)
  • Christmas bread (filled with figs, nuts, honey and candied fruits, a la fruitcake)
  • Ciambella
  • Bensone
  • Daisy cake
  • Semifreddi
  • Panettone
  • Rice cake
  • Crostata

Wines are generally sweet:

  • Albana
  • Cagnina,
  • Moscato Nostrano (Local Muscat)

Fruits:

  • Traditionally, at harvest time the peasants used to select some of the best grapes and hang them from the ceiling to serve semi-dried at Christmas.
  • Figs
  • Nuts
  • Almonds
  • Pine nuts

How to prepare a vegetarian Christmas meal

Hors d'oeuvres:

  Zucchine Ripiene
  Stuffed Zucchini
  • Mozzarella cheese with eggplant
  • Artichoke pie
  • Crespelle pasta with vegetables and asparagus
 
Primi:
  • Potato and chestnut gnocchi with gorgonzola cheese and walnuts
  • Risotto with rugola and taleggio cheese
 
Secondi:
  • Mushroom cutlet
  • Eggplant fagottini (little bags)
  • Stuffed zucchini (with cheese and chives)
  • Seasoned baby tomatoes
  • Grilled bell pepper with mint

Desserts:

  • Ricotta cake
  • Mascarpone cake

Let's take a look at a different tradition: Christmas in Brazil

Christmas is celebrated with great joy, spending time with family and friends. Everything is prepared with great care and decorated using patterns of green, red and gold colors. The traditional meal is refined and abundant.

In Brazil this is considered a truly unique time of the year that must be celebrated with love and the sharing of glasses, the best silverware, red roses, stelle di Natale, or pointsettias and colored candles for decoration.

The main part of the event however, is the menu. The food is what makes the difference and ensures the success of the party. The following dishes are a must for a traditional Brazilian Christmas meal.

  • Carpaccio with zucchini
  • Turkey
  • Chicken with farofa (organic manioc root)
  • Sweet potatoes with apples
  • Christmas present cake
  • Traditional Christmas drink

The decoration of the Christmas table: tablecloth, decorations, and centerpiece

The Brazilian Christmas table consists of a red tablecloth covered with white lace and white napkins tied with a red ribbon. Dinnerplates are put on under-plates, the glasses are set with a red candle between them, and the centerpiece is a butcher's broom sprayed gold. The placecards are written in gold on cardboard decorated with a red and gold angel in the corner.

At the table, the teenagers all sit together, while the younger kids seat beside their parents.

The grandparents sits in seats of honor and beside them sit the relatives that are rarely seen during the rest of the year.


A special centerpiece

The centerpiece is what personalizes the Brazilian dining table most.

If the table is placed against a wall the centerpiece may be developed vertically and in tone with other room decorations.

centerpiece with pomegranates and dried fruits

What you need:

  • Base of sponge
  • 3 red apples
  • 10 wood skewers
  • Red velvet ribbon
  • A few wheat sprigs sprayed with gold
  • 6 pomegranates
  • 1 white grape
  • 5 small oranges
  • 2 pears
  • Dried fruits
  • 4 branch of ivy
  • Golden spray
  • Round wicker basket with low border

How to prepare it:

  • Spray dried fruits uniformly with golden spray paint.
  • Spray paint some of the pomegranates, grape the ivy partially.
  • Let dry for 30 minutes.
  • Place sponge at the bottom of wicker basket.
  • Add crushed paper in empty space between the basket and the sponge for solidity.
  • Alternately skewer apples, pears and pomegranates according to taste and stick into sponge.
  • Add part of dried fruit to the basket and decorate with part of ivy.
  • Stick remaining ivy and the wheat directly into the sponge.
  • Add remaining dried fruit.
  • Complete by adding the last pomegranates.

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