Emilia - Romagna:
Articles

D.

Are there "golden rules" that could help us achieve harmonious pairing of food and wine?

R.

	Trebbiano

Yes, we have rules, provided by outgoing enologists and sommeliers, that help us in the search for a perfect marriage between food and wine. These guidelines are helpful to the casual host also. When he or she invites people over, either for a formal dinner or for a more casual meal, it is good to be able to harmonize food and wine so that the flavors of both are enhanced. Please remember that pairing wines with food and vice versa it's not an easy task. Since time immemorial, serious enogastronomists have searched for the perfect flavor pairing. In fact, from ancient written documents we know that professionals have been struggling to achieve the ideal match. In the old times, wine makers followed generally the rule of pairing white wines with lighter dishes, leaving the reds for more structured recipes. Probably a fair decision, since most likely back then they knew only of red and white as wine typologies. In the past, some cookbooks from important chefs made some references to pairing food and wine, but it was only in recent years that the subject has caught the interest of the general public. For this we should thank primarily the informative work done by the "Associazione Italiana Sommelier" ("Italian Sommelier Association", or AIS), other organizations that promote Italian gastronomy as well as the press and other information media that have backed up the effort to keep the general public informed on the subject.

The young person who wants to follow this path must understand this concept clearly: in addition to being able to evaluate the characteristics of both wine and food preparations, the goal is to combine the flavor so that both are highlighted, reaching for harmony and balance so as to feel gratified by the enhanced tasting experience.

The wine pairing with food is subject to several variables, such as the sauce used in the preparation, the climate and, finally, the overall surrounding feelings. All these elements contribute to make each perfect pairing unique. Obviously, in the course of centuries many pages have been written about the subject, tests have been conducted, studied and analyzed. Experiences and suggestions reported since long time ago have been reviewed, worked upon and evaluation methods perfected over time. In theory, today we should be able to generally pair food and wine based on given criteria which should help us refine our personal taste while helping us avoid basic mistakes.

	Albana

The following list may be used as a general guideline.

• Traditional pairing: when a typically regional recipe, or even specific to a limited area within a region, is paired traditionally with a wine produced in the same area.
• Seasonal pairing: based upon seasonal recipes, characterized by weather conditions that suggest either cold or hot food preparations, with more or less fat components and calories. In this case, in choosing a wine one must take into account the availability of fresh seasonal produce.
• Psychological and poetic pairing: based on a specific event, this pairing method highlights the clients or host feelings, simply and brilliantly transforming a meal reunion into a particular experience.
• Valorization pairing: this method tends to highlight the characteristics of a recipe, a wine, or both. To push forward the food qualities, one must choose a wine that delivers nose and taste buds sensations slightly lower compared to that of the food. To highlight the wine characteristics it should be the other way around, with the wine sensations taking slightly over the recipe's.
• Pairing by contraposition, or contrast of flavors: such pairing is chosen when the qualities of both elements is enhanced by the wine characteristics. For instance, there's a contrast between a fat dish and the acidity and effervescence of the wine, which help create the right balance avoiding a a furry tongue sensation.
• Pairing by similarity of flavors and structure: such pairing is illustrated by serving a sweet dessert with an amabile (semi-sweet) or sweet wine. Or, for instance, pairing a spicy food preparation with an aromatic wine.

D.

Which factors determine which regional or local recipe is paired with a particular wine from the same area?

R.

Following the traditional pairing used for generation and based mostly on the availability and synergies of times long gone. In addition to appealing to local consumers, this kind of pairing is appreciated by foreign visitors who wish to go "full immersion" into a regional experience as well. It is an evocative way to discover local customs and traditions. Such pairing does not involve a time consuming search for the wine, as both elements have similar origins and history, providing an extra element that stimulates curiosity and generates harmony and elegance.

D.

What about the seasonal pairing?

R.

There are of course recipes that are good for all seasons, but a typical fall or winter food preparation, based mainly on rich, fat components, would hardly be appreciated during a hot summer day, except for places with a cooler climate because of the elevation or occasional bad weather. Such food preparation require well-structured wines, with strong body and good alcoholic content. During the hot season on the other hand, our food appreciation is inverted and our bodies appreciate both cool and warm dishes served with more delicate, light sauces. Such dishes require fresh, light wines, simple and without complex structure. We should not forget the availability of seasonal produce that, providing new flavor to propose to clients, call for changes in the wine list as well.

D.

Could you highlight pairings by contraposition and by similarity of flavors?

R.

We realize pairing by contraposition, or contrast of flavors, serving a fat dish such as the "Tortelli di magro con burro e salvia" ("kind of pasta filled with lean meat and seasoned with butter and sage") with a young, effervescent and/or acidic white, dry wine. Such pairing help create a good balance without giving a furry mouth sensation. Emilian wines suggested in this case are either the Pagadebit di Romagna or, to enhance the sage aromas and heighten the effervescent component, a dry Malvasia dei Colli di Parma (from the Parma Hills). A dish which contains acidic food, such as seafood and marinated meats, should not be paired with a fresh wine, which is, a wine with high acidity, because the combination would generate an excess of the sensation. On the other hand, pairing such dishes with softer wines, the characteristics of both will be highlighted. The ideal wine might be a Pignoletto Classico dei Colli Bolognesi, or a Chardonnay dei Colli Piacentini (from the Piacenza Hills), as long as they are still and well structured. Other contrast pairings could be made with food that stimulates the taste buds of succulence, such as the Formaggio di Fossa ( Pit Cheese) which begs for tannic wine. In this case we want to serve a Recioto della Valpolicella , or another wine with soft characteristics, intense perfume, good alcohol grade and definitely without notes of freshness.The natural greasiness in food is well complemented by a wine with high alcohol content. With some vegetables and meats that have a bitter taste to them, we want to serve soft wines which are almost sweet (abboccato).

Contraposition of sensations though, does not always work for the best. There are cases in fact, when the pairing by similitude is much more appropriate. When serving sweet preparations, as well as foods that contains natural sugars and in the case of desserts, there are not wines available that, while maintaining a pleasant note, are so sour and dry to contrast them pleasantly. In this case, it is much better to go with the sugary content and pair such food with either an amabile (semi-sweet) or sweet wine. The pairing by similarity of flavors works well with aromatic and spicy recipes, for which we will look to find a wine with similar characteristics. Basically, with dishes that have a good scent and taste persistence, we want to serve wines that have intense and persistent aroma as well. A complex and well structured food preparation requires a robust wine, with high alcohol content and good structure. The opposite works for a light and delicate food preparation, when we will look for an equally light wine, delicate and with low aroma.

D.

Can we brake some taboos, for instance suggesting a red wine with fish recipes?

R.

There have been whispers for years now, about pairing a red to fish dishes. It all depends from how the fish is prepared. Considering the typical grilled platter, the wine must be a classic local white such as the Pagadebit di Romagna, or an Ortrugo dei Colli Piacentini. If the fish is cooked in sauce, or cioppino-style with tomato, garlic and onion, or "Brodetto dell'Adriatico" style, the aromatic persistence of the food can be paired with a rosé, or even a young, fruity red with low alcoholic content.

D.

Does the temperature of the food affect the wine choice? And vice versa?

R.

The smell and taste are held back in cold food, especially in food that comes right out of the fridge. Based on this, we would choose a more or less strong bodied red to pair with red meats, but with a cold hors d'oeuvre that include dried beef, or bresaola (kind of ham) from Valtellina, we would rather serve a dry white with an aromatic nose.

For the wine, it is the same as for food, if it is too cold its characteristics will be blurred. However, especially in summertime is advisable to serve wines about an half °C. degree below the normal for two reasons. Satisfy client's requests and, second of all, by the time the wine is tasted, the outside temperature will have brought about to the right level the wine. Portuguese sommeliers tend to pair wines based on food temperature, serving wines more or less cold according to the recipe intensity.

D.

Some kinds of food, such as artichokes, citrus fruits, grapes, fresh cheeses or ice cream. Can we risk pairing a wine?

R.

	Squaquerone Cheese

The foods mentioned have such characteristics that do not pair with wine. Because of the intense flavor and acidity, the citrus fruits cannot find an ideal match. In the case of grapes, it is because of its delicate flavor. Fruits like pineapple, melons and peaches on the other hand, have been used in food preparations, and paired with special wines such as Ruby Port, Madeira, or Sherry, as long as they are young. For a better match though, is better a sweet liqueur such as Maraschino, Orange Brandy, Arancello, or similar. In Romagna, traditionally people prepared peaches with dry, white wine, such as Albana or Trebbiano. That was an unfortunate pairing, as the mouth is filled with a bitter sensation. On the other hand, with sweet Albana, or even Passito, then the result will be more balanced. With egg dishes that include cheese or pork, we may venture a light white wine, not very structured and with low acidity.

A young cheese such as the Mozzarella Campana di bufala (Buffalo mozzarella from the Campania region) finds its perfect match with the Asprino d'Aversa, a wine produced from a local grape variety in the town of Aversa, in Naple province, which is where both products originated from. Other cheeses, such as Squacquerone, Stracchino and similar, it is harder finding a match. the ideal pairing might be with a particularly light wine, not to cool, and with low alcohol. Ice cream do not match with wine, it may be seasoned with sweet liqueurs, but it cannot be paired.

D.

Forgetting about strict pairing codes, with a bold posture, can we try to pair Chinese food and Italian wine ?

R.

We may try, though it is not an easy task. However, following the similarity and contraposition method, is possible to find matches. Chinese dishes range from sapid to bitter-sweet, based largely on vegetables and white meats. The generic ideal wine should be in the range comprised between dry white to a white with sugar residues and, in some cases, even a sweet white wine.

D.

And with pizza? Can we get something different than the usual beer?

R.

This myth was brought down years ago by various sommeliers, though the association never expressed itself officially about it, the trend is not catching up, I believe that it is especially because the servers tend to propose beer. A rosé wine could be paired generally well with various kinds of pizzas. In the Colli di Parma (Parma Hills) area they produce one that is particularly good with it.

D.

Give our reader a typical springtime regional meal, from hors d'oeuvres to dessert.

R.

	Garganelli al pettine

A regional menu that can highlight both the Adriatic seaside and the Emilia-Romagna inland, taking advantage of the fresh regional produce can include:

• Vellutata made with Asparagus from Altedo with golden quail eggs
• Crostini bread with Brisighello (local olive oil) and crunchy bacon
• Garganelli al pettine pasta with spring vegetables
• Saraghina (kind of local seafood) pie with anise puree
• Medaglioni (beef medallions) of Pezzata Romagnola (local kind of cow) with Sangiovese and black pepper sauce
• Lukewarm zabaione seasoned with Albana di Romagna passito
• Fiordilatte (custard) in wafer cookies with strawberries drizzled with Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena