Pastry Chef Beppe Gagliardi: Emilia-Romagna Pastries and Desserts
Interview by Daniele Bondi - May 1, 2004

The subject of this month's meeting with the Scuola di Serramazzoni (Regional School for Hotel and Restaurant Management) are the typical Emilia-Romagna pastries and desserts.

We met with pastry chef Beppe Gagliardi to whom we asked the following questions:

D.

What exactly defines a "pastry or dessert product"?

R.

It is prepared food, either cold or hot, whose base ingredient is a sweet product.

D.

Should ice cream be considered a "pastry or dessert product"?

R.

Yes. Ice cream is a cold preparation based on whole milk and sugar. Another version, the sorbet, is made with a syrupy base and fruit juice or meat.

D.

The traditional Emilian cuisine does not have great and complex desserts, but rather down-to-earth home made compositions. This does not mean that there aren't delicious recipes for those with a sweet tooth, though. Can you give us some examples?

R.

Sure, the Torta di Tagliatelle (Taglioline Cake), the Bensone, the Erbazzone, the Pan Papato, the Mandolini (Mandolins) from Ponte Lagoscuro, the Torta di Riso (Rice Cake), Frittelle di Mele (Apple Fritters), Frittelle di Castagne (Chestnut Fritters) and Castagnaccio, to name some.

D.

The"bensone" is a typical Modenese kind of cake, what are the ingredient used how did it change from centuries ago?

R.

The ingredients are flour, sugar, butter, eggs, various flavorings, salt and yeast.

The major changes are two. First of all, the cooking method has changed. In the past it was done in wood-burning ovens while today it is done in modern ovens. The second is the current use of chemical yeast, while in the past either ammonium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate was used.

D.

Are there other desserts that have stuck so much to the tradition? Which ones?

R.

The Pan Papato for instance, which was already served at the table of the Estensi family, Ferrara and Modena rulers, in Renaissance times.

D.

What are Saba, savòur, and sughi? Are these products still used to prepare desserts or pastries? How?

R.

Saba is made with overcooked must (grape juice before it starts to ferment).
Savòur is cooked must with the addition of quince.
Sughi is a jelly made with cooked must.

All three ingredients are still used in artisanal pastrymaking as well as in homemade desserts, particularly in celebrations of traditional events in the countryside, where the historic re-evaluation of culinary traditions is appreciated and promoted.

D.

Milk – cream – butter …… these are the main ingredients. What else is used?

R.

Flour , sweeteners, eggs, fat components such as butter substitutes and margarine, dry fruits, fresh fruits and rice.

D.

What kind of flours are used to prepare Emilian pastries?

R.

Wheat and chestnut flour. Strangely enough, there's no use of corn flour in Emilia, while in Piedmont for example, it used widely.

D.

It seems like all cakes and desserts are fattening! Is there a dietetic recipe to satisfy both the vanity and the taste buds of today's skinny young girls?

R.

The non fattening sweet recipe is the Semifreddo alle Pere e Yogurt (Semi-cold with Pears and Yogurt)
Preparation time: 2 hours
Difficulty level: high

Ingredients for 10 people:

 
  • 10.5 oz. (300 g.) pears puree
  • 5,25 oz. (150 g.) Italian meringue
  • 7 oz. (200 g.) whipped cream
  • 3.5 oz. (100 g.) non fat yogurt

For the decoration:

 
  • dehydrated pears
  • chocolate slices
  • chocolate circles
  • caramel spirals

Preparation:

 
  1. Work the pear puree into the yogurt, mix in the meringue, add the semi-whipped cream.
  2. Fill cone-shaped single use forms and put inside the freezer.
  3. Once they are frozen solid, slice the cones in two parts, insert chocolate discs and decorate with chocolate slices, dehydrated pears and a caramel spiral.

Caution, Warnings, Tips:

 
  • while blending the pears, add few drops of lemon to avoid oxidation
  • whip the cream about 70% while cold in a previously cooled container
  • to obtain a more stabilized product, you may add gelatin sheets, which have been previously diluted in water, to the mixture
  • to make the spiral, pour the hot caramel gently onto a non-sticky surface using a doubled-greased paper cone.

Wine pairing:

 

I suggest serving it with a sweet white Spumante wine, such as the Albana di Romagna Spumante

Rhyme:

 

"To you sweet girls I say, be relaxed
These sweet treats wont affect your waist line, just your taste buds.
You'll be impressed and ask for more,
And the scale will leave you amazed and happy to the core".

D.

Could you a suggest specific pairings of dessert with wine and with liquor?

R.

Chocolate mousse paired to a good, aged Rum.
The Bensone cake paired either with the red Primitivo di Manduria passito or the white Albana Passito.

D.

Could you mention a traditional and a modern Easter recipe?

R.

The traditional recipe is the Pan Frutto (bread dough sweetened with sugar, butter, raisins and candied fruits).

For the modern recipe, I suggest Tiramisu, served inside half an Easter milk chocolate egg.


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