Montasio DOP and Murazzano DOP
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Introduction
Here we continue our presentation of Italy's 155 products of Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta).
This month we present one cheese produced in the Alps of the Friuli Venezia Giulia region, Montasio DOP, and a Piedmontese robiola produced with mixed cow and sheep milk, Murazzano DOP.
Montasio DOP (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto)
Protected Designations of Origin: REG. CE, 12 giugno 1996
This cheese takes its name from the Alpine location where it originated, characterized to this day by the bucolic landscapes used since time immemorial to pasture cow and sheep herds.
The credit for the Montasio DOP production technique is attributed to an unknown monk from the Moggio Abbey, as it can be read in ancient documents dating back to the 13th centuries. In fact, at that time the whole Alpine area around Montasio was owned by this monastery, and the monks' main activities were animal breeding and dairy production. In more recent times the production zone of this cheese has been expanded to include pre-Alpine, hilly, and plain areas.
The Montasio DOP production rules regulate the forage fed to the animals, as well as the method of delivering the milk to the dairy farm, in order to grant well defined organoleptic characteristics of the base product. This is because extended refrigeration, pasteurization, sterilization, and the use of additives of any kind is strictly forbidden.
The finished product is checked by the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Montasio (Consortium for the Protection of the Montasio Cheese). The approved cheese is identified by the word Montasio etched transversally on the side of the wheels, in addition to the date of production, the logo or acronym of the dairy farm, and the initials of the province where it was produced.
Production Phases
The milk is brought to the dairy farm twice a day, immediately after milking. Typically, the milk delivered in the evening is partially skimmed before being mixed with that delivered in the morning. The process of transformation is made following the traditional method used for the production of cooked cheese, paying particular attention to the preparation of the curdle, which is made directly at the dairy.
After seasoning the cheese with salt, done in two stages, first in brine and then with the dried wheels, the product is left to ripen in special rooms at a controlled temperature and humidity. The ageing varies from around two months for the fresh Montasio DOP, to four months for the medium-aged type, and up to a minimum of 12 months for the stagionato (aged) variety.
Characteristics of the Product
The Montasio DOP is a compact cheese aged from two to 18 months. The wheels have a cylindrical form with a diameter of 30 to 40 centimeters (12 to 16 inches), are from six to ten centimeters (3 to 4 inches) high, and weigh from five to nine kilos (11 to 20 pounds).
The fresh Montasio DOP has a pliant, smooth rind and is light brown in color. The color of the slice is white or light yellow straw, and it is compact, with small holes. With the maturation the rind becomes gradually drier and the interior acquires a coarseness and crumbliness. The fresh Montasio is typically sweet, but becomes more aromatic and slightly spicy with aging.
Gastronomy and Wine Pairing
This typical table cheese with a flavor which ranges from sweet when fresh, to aromatic and spicy when more mature, is excellent paired with dried fruits and pears, and, when aged longer, with a few drops of traditional balsamic vinegar from Modena. When aged, the Montasio DOP may be grated and used in place of the Parmigiano Reggiano DOP or Grana DOP.
The fresh Montasio pairs well with Grave del Friuli Merlot, Isonzo Merlot, and Pinot Nero del Trentino.
For the aged Montasio we suggest pouring Cabernet Franc dei Colli Orientali del Friuli, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso DOC, Merlot dei Colli Orientali del Friuli, or Pinot Nero Grave del Friuli.
- Production Zone:
Friuli Venezia Giulia, the provinces of Belluno, Treviso, and part of Padua and Venice. - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Montasio
S.S. Napoleonica
33030 Rivolto di Codroipo (UD)
Murazzano DOP (Piemonte)
Protected Designations of Origin: Reg. CE. 12 giugno 1996
The Murazzano DOP is a classic Piedmontese robiola produced with mixed cow and sheep milk, which takes its name from the town in the province of Cuneo where it is produced.
The robiola is a type of cheese already known by the Romans, who considered it a valuable cheese, as reported by reported da Pliny the Elder.
Production Phases
The maximum percentage of cow milk allowed by the production rules of the Murazzano DOP is 60%.
The milk is brought to the temperature of 37°C. (98.6°F.) before adding the liquid curdle. After curdling, the cheese is left to rest for three hours before being laid for at least 24 hours in round molds with a pierced bottom, to allow serum drainage. Salting takes place afterwards when the wheels are dried.
Characteristics of the Product
Fresh, soft cheese mostly eaten after four or five days from production, though smaller amounts are marketed after a brief maturation, allowing the cheese to acquire a pleasant bitterish flavor.
The wheeles are round and low, with a diameter of less than 15 centimeters ((6 inches). The slice is soft and the color ranges from ivory white to straw yellow, depending on the maturation time.
The Murazzano DOP is also sold in glass jars, in the form of a dense cream with a white-gray color. The product thus packaged is known as Bruz di Murazzano, and it is prepared by cutting wheels of cheese in small pieces and fermented with a small amount of sheep cheese.
Wine Pairing
Excellent paired with Dolcetto d'Alba or Monferrato DOC 'Infinito'.
- Production Zone:
Murazzano and other municipalities in the province of Cuneo. - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Murazzano
c/o Comunità Montana Alta Langa
Via Umberto I, 1
12060 Bossolasco (CN)
Tel. 0173-799000 - Fax 0173 793449
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