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Formal Wine Tasting: Examination of Taste – Part Three of Three
Staff Writer - December 10, 2003

Visual Examination • Olfactory Examination • Taste Examination

Point to the definitions above to see the location of the taste buds involved in identifying the various sensations. Click on it to read the description.

Formal wine tasting is a process that follows a structured, precise methodology in three phases and is aimed at producing a disciplined assessment of the perceived sensations.

This is the third and last part of the article in which we analyze the three steps of formal wine tasting: the visual examination, the olfactory examination and finally, the examination of taste. Without further ado, let's get to the last installment.

Taste Examination

The Taste Examination is the third and final part of formal tasting and represents the synthesis of the tasting experience. At this stage, the taster arrives at the bottom line regarding the overall quality of the wine.

There are four fundamental taste sensations physically recognized by the taste buds in the tongue, sweet, sour, salty and bitter. and each sensation is physically linked to specific areas of the tongue (see insert)

Sweet:	The"'feeling" of sweetness is a sensation generated mainly by natural sugars that can be found in a wide range of proportions in wine. The sensation is essentially felt on the tip of the tongue, and partially, with the mucous membrane of the mouth. When the sugar residues are widely reduced in a wine, with measurable values of 1 to 5 grams per liter, or 1/7 ounce to 2/3 ounce per gallon, there is no sweetness to speak of. With such low sugar levels, a wine could be defined as soft at most, which is, however, a pleasantly round sensation. The taste of sweetness and/or softness becomes more evident at a higher temperature, and this is why a sweet white wine should be served at a temperature between 35° to 39° Fahrenheit, or 2° to 4° Celsius, higher compared to the serving temperature of a dry white wine.
Sour:	Sensation provided by the acids generally present in wine. Such a sensation provides an unpleasant sense of hardness, which is felt in the frontal side parts of the tongue. The perception of a sour taste is highly affected by the temperature.
Salty:	Faint taste of mineral salts, felt mainly by the lateral and sides parts of the tongue. The taste is stronger at lower temperatures.
Bitter:	Taste provided mainly by the polyphenols, and especially by the tannins. It is felt at the base of the tongue, or at the back of the mouth. The taste is stronger at lower temperatures, and this is why a red wine with rich tannins and minerals should not be served cold, as it would feel to hard to the palate, while a higher temperature helps deliver the complex structure of the wine.

The taste and structure of a wine are assessed according to general structure, harmony, intensity, persistence, quality and state of evolution.

General Structure

The general structure consists of two main components: the fixed taste support, or the element of pure taste, and the volatile fragrance component, or the purely olfactory element. It is broken down into six components: sugars, acidity, tannin, alcohol, body and softness.

Sugars

This examination assesses the quantity of residual sugars.

Dry

The term describes a wine in which it is not possible to detect any trace of sugar which can be present in quantities less than 2 grams per liter (a little over 1/4 ounce per gallon).

Off Dry

Wine which has a tenuously sweetish taste. Sugar residues are between 1/2 once and 1.6 ounces per gallon, or 4 and 12 grams per liter.

Semisweet

Wine which is sweet to taste, but not predominantly so.

Sweet

Sweetness is the dominant sensation.

Very Sweet

Extremely sweet. This characteristic should be found only in fortified wines or those made from partly dried grapes (passito).

Acidity (mineral salts)

This examination is focused on identifying the presence and intensity of acids in wines. The classical sign of acidity is a tingling around and under the tongue accompanied by a sensation of freshness.

Flat

A wine definitely non-harmonic because of its lack of acids. Flabby and flat, the sensation is found generally in decrepit wines.

Sapid

Even though the acids are largely present in the oral cavities, they do not stimulate their pseudo-fresh characteristic.

Fairly Fresh

The sensorial perception of acids is sufficiently present.

Fresh

This is the fundamental characteristic for all white wines, especially dry and, in particular, sparkling wines. The acids stimulate a pseudo-fresh sensation similar to that of mint, lemon, and lemon-scented verbena.

Acidulous

A wine lacking harmony because of its excess level of acids.

Tannin

The quantity of tannins contained in wine is evaluated in this examination. The more tannin there is, the greater the sensation of surfeit, which blocks salivation and dries up the mucus membranes in the mouth.

Lacking

Wine lacking tannin, thus giving a sensation of emptiness.

Little Tannin

Wine slightly lacking tannin.

Properly Tannic

Wine having the correct tannic quantity, it is regarded as optimal for its type.

Tannic

Wine in which the tannin slightly dominates all other structural elements.

Astringent

Wine with an excessive amount of tannin, which dries up the mucus membranes in the mouth.

Alcohol

This examination takes into consideration the alcohol content of the wine. The greater it is, the more it produces a sensation of warmth, especially at the moment the wine is tasted.

Weak

Wine which has a moderate level of alcohol. The lack of alcohol is sensed.

Light in Alcohol

Wine which has a moderate, but balanced level of alcohol.

Warm

Wine containing a balanced level of alcohol, giving a pleasant pseudo-thermic sensation.

Very Warm

Wine containing a generous level of alcohol and the pseudo-thermic sensation is very evident.

Alcoholic

Wine containing an elevated level of alcohol, lacking harmony with the other structural elements. The pseudo-thermic sensation is very strong.

During fermentation, in addition to ethyl-alcohol other components are formed, such as glycerin and sorbitol, among others. The Italians called these substances "polialcoli". The glycerin is a viscous liquid sweet substance without color. If present in high quantity, gives to the wine roundness and softness. Based on the content of "polialcoli" a wine can be defined as follows.

Hard

Wine which lacks softness completely.

Soft

Wine with a pleasant softness to the palate, thanks to the balanced concentration of glycerin in elevated level of alcohol, lacking harmony with the other structural elements. The pseudo-thermic sensation is very strong.

Body

The body of a wine is the ensemble of its chemical components with special reference to its extracts including glycerin, mineral salts, sugars and polyphenols, which produce sensations of density and viscosity on the tongue and the mucus membranes in the mouth.

Thin

Indicates a weak presence of the components of the wine, even though the alcohol level is within legal limitations (9% alcohol in volume, 0.6 ounces per gallon, or 4.5 grams per liter, anticipated extract from the production disciplinary). Such wine is elusive to the nose.

Light in Body

The presence of the components of the wine is modest and could be a characteristic of its type.

Adequate Body

All of the components of the wine are quantitatively represented, giving it good structure and balance.

Full

Wines of great structure and very balanced. Such wines have great intensity and a persistent odor and/or flavor.

Heavy

Wines containing excessive extract material making it "heavy" and giving its taste a sense of tiredness.

Softness

The substances responsible for a wine's softness are sugars, alcohol and glycerin, which also make it seem rounded and tasty. In current terminology, softness also refers to sapid sensations of sweetness that are due to residual sugars, ethyl alcohol and glycerin as well as warmth, due to ethyl alcohol. Sapid sensations of saltiness or acidity and tactile impressions of astringency due to tannin are regarded as hard elements.

A wine can, however, be more or less soft, depending upon its content of substances that produce sensations of sweetness in contrast to or combination with those that yield hard sensations. It is noteworthy that the sensations of softness are registered by all the mucus membranes of the oral cavity, while sensations of sweetness are detected only by the taste buds on the tip of the tongue.

Lacking Softness

Independent from the color and body, a wine can lack softness, resulting from the immaturity of the acidic and tannic components.

Fairly Soft

If the acidic, tannic and bitter components have not matured sufficiently, they cover the soft substances, such as alcohol and sugars, and deliver an underlying sense of sharpness.

Soft

The persuasive, unyielding and velvety sensation found in both white and in red wines when tasted at the optimal temperature.

Roundness

The sensation of softness is accentuated to the point that there is an impression of sweetness.

Chewy

A wine which contains important bodily components so that it appears full and heavy. It gives a heavy sensation of sugars and glycerine.

Harmony

In respect to the purely gustatory component, this examination is based on a comparison of softness and acidity, in respect to white wines, and softness, acidity and tannins insofar as red wines are concerned. As to the purely olfactory component, the focus is on the consistency of the harmony among odors. In terms of overall harmony, the balance between flavors and odors is assessed.

Disharmonious	When one or more of the components of odor or flavor prevails in an unfavorable way masking all other elements. The lack of harmony comes from the excessive amounts of alcohol, acids, tannins and bitter sensations.
Slightly Disharmonious	When one or more of the components of odor or flavor interfere with the structure, moderately masking other elements.
Fairly Balanced	When one or more of the structural components are not balanced.
Balanced	A wine that tends to have a balance.
Harmonious	Wine in which all of the structural elements are present in the same intensity and, therefore, having a perfect balance. It is, of course, a very fine and elegant wine.
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Note: The use of the terms "relatively balanced" and "slightly disharmonious" is highly relative, since wines so described, depending upon type, may be regarded by some tasters as satisfactory. In such cases, "satisfactory" should not be considered synonymous with "quality."

Intensity

This examination is intended to evaluate the maximum impact of the sensations of odor and flavor when the wine is held in the mouth and the degree to which that intensity persists after the wine is swallowed.

That quantitative measurement is effected within the limits of the threshold of perception on one hand and the threshold of saturation on the other, both of which can vary from one wine to another.

Very Intense	This refers to the quantity of odor and flavor components that remain in the oral cavity after the wine is swallowed. The sensation is very evident.
Intense - Fairly Intense	This quantity of components is normally found in quality wines.
Light	The stimulants are lacking, or may be acceptable if they are part of the particular type of wine as outlined in the production regulations.
Tenuous	The wine generally lacks all stimulants. The sensations are transient to the flavor and, with more evidence, to the taste and odor via retro-nasal.
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Persistence

This examination is intended to evaluate the duration (in seconds) of the intensity of the odor-flavor sensations when the wine is held in the mouth and after it is swallowed.

To evaluate this characteristic more effectively, the taster should chew slowly, that is at the rate of about once a second, after swallowing the wine.

Very Persistent	The intensity is still evident more than 15 seconds after the wine is swallowed. Indicates a high quality wine.
Persistent	The intensity can be sensed for a period of 10 to 15 seconds after swallowing.
Fairly Persistent	The intensity is still apparent 8 to 10 seconds after swallowing.
Little Persistent	The intensity is evident for only 5 to 8 seconds after swallowing.
Short	The intensity is evident for less than 5 seconds after swallowing.
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Final sensations or finish
With the gradual weakening of the persistence of odors and flavors, a final sensation may develop that is different from those previously perceived. It generally lasts from 2 to 5 seconds and is known as the aftertaste. It is a defect if that aftertaste does not correspond with the specific sensory characteristics of the wine tasted. Wines such as the Grignolino del Monferrato for instance, should always have a typically bitter aftertaste, aligned with sensorial sensations provided by the the tannin.

Quality

This is the wine's capacity to satisfy the qualified taster.

It may seem that quality is no more than "whatever pleases." However, the assessment of quality is much more than a matter of liking a wine. A definitive judgment can be passed only in reference to a standard developed by the taster through qualified instructions and experience.

Very Fine	Describes great wines that have complete and perfectly balanced properties, which assure the greatest sensorial satisfaction.
Fine	The term is reserved for those wines that offer particularly positive sensations and proper balance.
Fairly Fine	This is applied to all of those premium wines that offer positive and balanced sensations but are of lesser standing.
Ordinary	Reserved for those wines that, while they have no defects, do not possess any outstanding characteristics.
Coarse	Wines that, while they have no defects, produce pronounced sensations with more or less obvious imbalances.
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State of Evolution

This examination evaluates the evolution of the wine at the moment in which it is tasted in relation to the sensory characteristics it has developed.

Young	Wines that still present disharmony and are not yet ready for consumption.
Ready	Wines that are ready for consumption, even though they are still in an evolutionary stage and are capable of further improvement.
Mature	Wines which, independent from their age, have reached a balance between their various components, but which can still improve.
Slightly Old	Wines which begin to have very evolved fragrances, at times ethereal. They begin to show some signs of defect and alteration because they have reached the final stage of maturation.
Decrepit	Wines which are characteristically dead as a result of excessive aging of their structural elements.
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Bottom Line

	Below is an example of a sensorial analysis form used by the Associazione Italiana Sommeliers, or Italian Sommelier Association). In addition to take in account the guidelines highlighted in the article, it includes other parameters which contribute to a better identification of the wine.

The Balance of Taste

Two components are to be taken into consideration when formulating an opinion at the end of the wine tasting experience: the softness, which is affected by the sugar, alcohol and glycerine content, and the hardness, which is affected by the presence of tannins, acids and mineral salts.

These components must be present in a balanced proportion. However, when considering both white and red young wines, one can certainly accept stronger hard components which slightly overpower the soft ones. On the contrary, when evaluating the balance of a mature wine, the presence of higher soft components over the hard ones is perfectly acceptable.

Bottom line, a wine is well balanced when the hard and soft components are present in the right proportion, according to the type of wine that is being tasted.

In closing, let's explode some myths

Not all wines get better with age.
- White wines are usually best when drunk young.
- Red wines age well and improves their taste if they are made from specific grapes, produced using the right techniques and stored adequately.
Red wine does not cure anemia.
Contrary to popular belief, it is not harmful to mix red and white wine during a meal. It is the quantity of alcohol drunk that matters, not the color of the wine.
Shots of liquor and cocktails contain much more alcohol than a glass of wine.