September is California Wine Month • First Part
Staff Writer - September 18, 2007

In addition to being harvest time, September is also California Wine Month. This is one of the most exciting moments to visit the wine grape production zones of the state, from Napa and Sonoma, to Santa Barbara and Paso Robles. To celebrate the second annual Wine Month, we have decided to write about the California wine zones and the most cultivated grapes here.

Coppola Vineyards
Winter vineyards at Neubaum-Coppola Estate
Photogrph courtesy of Alessandro Desogos

California grows over 100 different grape types, putting the state among the top producers in the world for types and varieties of vines cultivated. Though California produces wine blends, most bottled wines produced in the state are varietal, which, according to US laws, means that they are made from at least 75% of one particular grape.

Coppola Vin eyards
Napa County, Highway 29, Winter
Photogrph courtesy of Alessandro Desogos

The top varietal styles most popular with California and US consumers are the following:

  1. Red Wines
    1. Cabernet Sauvignon
      This is the best selling red wine in the United States and the second most cultivated grape in California. This tannic, well structured and age-worthy wine is sometimes refered to as the 'king of wines'. It delivers black cherry, blackberry, cassis, and cedar notes, with hints of graphite, olive and forest floor. The Cabernet Sauvignon grape is often blended with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and, in lesser quantity, with Syrah.
    2. Merlot
      The soft, luscious, easy going character of this variety makes Merlot a favorite. With its tannins rounder than the Cabernet Sauvignon's, this grape can be used to make both varietals and blends, adding small quantities of other grape varieties. Typically, Merlot offers plum, currant, black cherry and light hints of herbs. When aged in wooden barrels it acquire a toasted character and vanilla notes.
    3. Pinot Noir
      Pinot Noir has been cultivated in California for decades, however it took the Sideways, the brilliant Rex Pickett's novel made into a blockbuster movie by director Alexander Payne, to catch the attention of the public and acquire a broad-based popularity. The wine presents aromas of violets, truffles and spice, with an ethereal structure and silky flavor, reminiscent of juicy berry and cherry. It is compatible with a wide array of food.
    4. Sirah
      Though this grape variety has been cultivated in California for about a century, only recently has it experienced a surge in popularity and the acreage of vines have grown throughout the state. In general this wine has ripe blackberries, cassis, black pepper and meaty flavor, though soil and climate affect the style of the wine. When blended with Grenache, Mauvedre, Cisnault, or other grape varieties, the Sirah becomes adaptable and takes on multiple personalities.
    5. Zinfandel
      Finally, the one grape that is considered the California and America own variety: the Zinfandel. Believed to have been introduced to California during the gold rush, the Zinfancel has the same DNA as the Primitivo from Apulia, and the Crljenak from Croatia, thus it is safe to say that it was brought over from either one of these two fairly limited zones. These wine come in a range of styles:
      • big bodied red wines, with wild berry, spicy clove, and black pepper flavor;
      • fruity, off-dry blush wines;
      • elegant clarets; and
      • late-harvest sweet wines.
  2. White Wines
    1. Chardonnay
      With 95,000 acres of vineyards, this variety is California's most cultivated grape and the US' most popular wine variety. The typical aroma and flavors of the Chardonnay are of apple, pear, and citrus, while richer barriqued versions show notes of toast, vanilla and butter. More delicate California Chardonnays are crisp and mouthwatering, with just a hint of oak.
    2. Pinot Grigio, or Pinot Gris
      This varietal, called either Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris, according to the Italian or French style winemaking applied, is a fruity white that has become popular for its light, clean, jucy citrus and melon flavor. The wines produced following the Alsatian method are usualy richer in the mouth and show mineral notes.
    3. Sauvignon Blanc
      This varietal, sometimes called Fumé Blanc, comes in a variety of styles which deliver direct, pungent aromas with flavor which ranges from citrus and green apple, to rich, creamy notes. Usually this wine is fermented in stainless steel vats to preserve the fruit character, though there are versions fermeted in oak barrels which develop a toasted, round texture. California Sauvignon Blanc is often crisp, lively, dry and food friendly, pairing well with hard-to-pair vegetable dishes, thus is well liked by vegetarians.
  3. Sparkling Wines
    Though red wine dominates the scene among California consumers, followed by white wines as a distant last, the sparkling wines have a solid, growing fan base. This type of wine has long been considered a celebratory beverage, drunk particularly during the holiday season, but things are changing. In addition to being excellent as an aperitif, the effervescence and crisp acidity typical of sparkling wines go well with salty and fried dishes, shellfish and Asian cuisine in general. The method used most to produce sparkling wines is the champenoise, the original French technique from the Champagne region which ferments the grapes in the traditional still-wine fashion, allowing the wine to undergo the second fermebntation in the bottle. It is this second fermentation that generates the bubbles that dance in the glass when the wine is poured.
  4. Blush and Rosé Wines
    Pinky wines such as White Zinfandel, White Merlot or White Grenache are big sellers in the US, thanks to their light, sweetish, and refreshing taste. More and more wine drinker though, are embracing California rosé, made with any type of red grapes by leaving the grape skin in contact with the juice for a short period of time. These wines are usually drier than the traditional blush, and pair well with lighter recipes, salads and spicy dishes.

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