Piedmont:
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Risotto Revelation (Second Part)
Three divergent Italian rices are challenging the reign of Arborio
Janet Fletcher - January 7, 2004

First Part • Second Part

Ricepies:

• Risotto With Fresh Tomato & Herbs
• Risotto with Saffron, Zucchini and Radicchio
• Panissa
• Italian Rice Salad With Shrimp
• Delfina's Truffled Rice Pudding

Secret of perfect risotto

	Italian rice, such as the unhulled grains pictured, are classified as either superfino, semifino or fino, which are size designations rather than indicators of quality.
	Carnaroli rice is low-yield and disease-prone, the grains break easily and it's expensive, but it makes a creamy, flowing, almost-perfect risotto. Photographs by Dario Fusaro

What all these chefs did, and what I now do, is to stop cooking the rice while it is still firm to the tooth and a little soupy. (Cucco repeatedly broke into a grain to see if he could still see the anima, or soul -- the hard kernel of starch at the center. If so, he kept cooking.) Then, during the three- to five-minute off-heat resting period, the rice completes cooking and absorbs some of the remaining liquid. Adding cheese and either butter or olive oil at the very end enhances the creaminess.

Many recipes call for cooking risotto for 20 to 25 minutes, or even longer. If I learned nothing else in my Italian rice exploration, I learned that this timing is too long for Carnaroli and Vialone Nano. Taking them off the heat at 15 minutes and allowing them to complete their cooking while resting produces grains that are firm and cooked through, but not mushy. The starch in Arborio and Baldo takes closer to 20 minutes to gelatinize, so taking them off the heat a couple of minutes before that should do the trick.

At Lucedio, di Wiesenhoff says that he is increasing his plantings of Carnaroli, the variety that fetches the highest price. It is low yielding and difficult -- it breaks easily in the wind, is disease-prone, and the grains break easily in processing -- but the premium price makes it worth growing. In fact, says di Wiesenhoff, government figures show, suspiciously, that more Carnaroli is packaged than planted.

Matt Kramer, a wine writer in Oregon and authority on the cooking of Piemonte, has heard the rumors. "The dark underside of the rice business is these endless murmurings that everything presented to us as Carnaroli is not Carnaroli," he says. Italian law allows packagers to put some percentage of other grains in varietal rices -- just as California Pinot Noir can be up to 25 percent something else -- but the top producers insist that theirs are pure.

"In my opinion, we should take superfino off the label and just put '100 percent Carnaroli,' " says di Wiesenhoff of his own rice. The size designations of superfino, semifino and fino are legally meaningless, he says, and are now merely marketing terms.

The only way to know you are getting a pure varietal Carnaroli is to inspect it visually, which means buying some. The grains should appear long, full and uniform. The fewer broken grains, the better. Be wary of a low price; true Carnaroli is justifiably expensive.

Unfortunately, we missed Lucedio's sagra -- rice harvest feast -- by about two weeks. The centerpiece dish for the sagra is panissa, a trencherman's risotto with beans and various cuts of cured pork. To celebrate my newfound knowledge about Italian rice, a chef friend and I made panissa at home from Silvestro's recipe, and we savored every bite.

Which rice for which dish

Although I'm convinced that technique rules, and that variety is less important, I'll probably continue to buy Carnaroli for risotto and rice salad. I like its big, long grains and think it cooks more evenly than Arborio.

I'll keep Vialone Nano on hand for seafood risotto, in a nod to Venetian tradition.

For soups, rice puddings, rice cakes, arancine (Italian rice fritters) and other dishes where the rice texture is less important, it makes sense to use a less expensive rice like Arborio or Baldo.

Brands to look for in the Bay Area include Principato di Lucedio, Riseria di Lenta, Pila Vecia and the widely available Beretta.

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Risotto With Fresh Tomato & Herbs

A family recipe from Countess Rosetta Clara d'Olivola Salvadori di Wiesenhoff, the proprietor of Principato di Lucedio.

Ingredients (serves 4):

• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1/4 onion, finely minced
• 1 1/2 cups Carnaroli, Arborio or Vialone Nano rice
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 3/4 cup tomato sauce (preferably homemade)
• 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh herbs, such as parsley, sage, rosemary and basil
• Approximately 5 cups vegetable broth, simmering
• 1/2 cup peeled and diced fresh tomato
• 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan
• Salt to taste

Instructions:

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large, wide pot over moderate heat.
2. Add the onion and saute until soft but not colored.
3. Add the rice and stir constantly until it is hot, about 3 minutes.
4. Add the wine. When it evaporates, add the tomato sauce and herbs.
5. Cook, stirring, for about 1 minute, then begin adding the hot broth 1/2 cup at a time.
6. Stir frequently and add more broth only when the previous addition has been absorbed. It should take about 15 minutes (longer for Arborio) for the rice to absorb most of the broth and become almost tender.
7. Let rest for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, to allow the rice to complete its cooking.
8. Stir in the tomato, Parmesan, remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and salt to taste.
9. Serve immediately in warm bowls.

Per serving: 460 calories, 11 g protein, 69 g carbohydrate, 14 g fat (3 g saturated), 5 mg cholesterol, 1,649 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.

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Risotto with Saffron, Zucchini and Radicchio

This is a family recipe from Countess Rosetta Clara d'Olivola Salvadori di Wiesenhoff, the proprietor of Principato di Lucedio.

Ingredients (serves 4):

• 2 medium zucchini
• 6 cups vegetable broth or light chicken broth
• 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1/4 onion, finely minced
• 1 1/2 cups Carnaroli, Arborio or Vialone Nano rice
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 1/4 large head radicchio, cored and very finely sliced
• 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Instructions:

1. Place 1 zucchini on a cutting board and cut a 1/4-inch-thick lengthwise slice. Turn the zucchini 90 degrees and cut another 1/4-inch-thick lengthwise slice. Repeat two times so that you remove all the skin.
2. Cut the skinless core of the zucchini into small cubes and cut the lengthwise slices into matchsticks about 1 1/2 inches long.
3. Cut the second zucchini the same way.
4. Put the broth and 1/8 teaspoon saffron threads in a saucepan and bring to a simmer.
5. Taste and add more saffron if desired. Adjust heat to maintain a bare simmer.
6. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large, wide pot over moderate heat.
7. Add the onion and saute until soft but not colored.
8. Add the rice and stir constantly until it is hot, about 3 minutes.
9. Add the wine. When it evaporates, add the zucchini cubes.
10. Begin adding the hot broth 1/2 cup at a time.
11. Stir frequently and add more broth only when the previous addition has been absorbed. It should take about 15 minutes (longer for Arborio) for the rice to absorb most of the broth and become almost tender.
12. Stir in the zucchini matchsticks and the radicchio, then remove from the heat.
13. Let rest for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, to allow the rice to complete its cooking.
14. Stir in the Parmesan, butter and the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.
15. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately in warm bowls.

Per serving: 490 calories, 12 g protein, 69 g carbohydrate, 17 g fat (5 g saturated), 13 mg cholesterol, 1,625 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.

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Panissa

This robust risotto was once the traditional Sunday meal for the country people who worked in the Piedmontese rice fields. Today it is served at the harvest party for the rice workers at Principato di Lucedio. Adapted from a recipe by chef Angelo Silvestro of Ristorante Balin in Livorno Ferraris.

Ingredients (serves 4 to 6):

The beans:

1. 3/4 cup dried cranberry beans
2. 2 slices pancetta, about 1/4 inch thick
3. 1 pig's foot, halved lengthwise
4. 1/2 large onion
5. 2 bay leaves
6. Sea salt to taste

The risotto:

1. 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil + olive oil for garnish
2. 2 ounces pancetta, minced
3. 1/4 large onion, finely minced
4. 1 1/2 cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice
5. 1/2 cup red wine
6. 1 tablespoon tomato paste
7. Approximately 6 cups bean broth
8. 2 ounces high-quality salami, finely diced
9. 1/3 to 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
10. Freshly ground pepper to taste

Instructions:

The beans:

1. Soak beans overnight in water to cover generously.
2. Drain.
3. Transfer beans to a pot with the sliced pancetta, pig's foot, onion and bay leaves. Add cold water to cover by 1 inch.
4. Bring to a simmer over moderately low heat.
5. Cover and adjust heat to maintain a bare simmer.
6. Cook until beans are tender. Season with salt.
7. Let cool in the liquid.

You can prepare beans to this point 1 day ahead.

The risotto:

1. Drain beans, reserving broth.
2. Discard pancetta, onion and bay leaves.
3. Bone the pig's foot; coarsely chop meat and skin.
4. Transfer 6 cups of the broth to a saucepan; bring to a simmer.
5. Heat olive oil and minced pancetta in a large pot over moderately low heat. Cook until pancetta begins to crisp.
6. Add onion; saute until soft, about 10 minutes.
7. Add rice and toast until hot throughout, 2 to 3 minutes.
8. Add wine; simmer until it evaporates.
9. Stir in tomato paste.
10. Begin adding hot broth 1/2 cup at a time, stirring often and adding more only when the previous addition has been absorbed.
11. The risotto should simmer briskly. It should take about 15 minutes (longer for Arborio) for the rice to absorb most of the broth and become almost tender.
12. Stir in beans, salami and pig's foot.
13. Thin with more broth if needed, then remove from heat.
14. Let rest for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, to allow rice to complete its cooking.
15. Stir in Parmesan.
16. Season to taste with salt and pepper to taste and serve in warm bowls and pass additional olive oil at the table.

Per serving: 480 calories, 21 g protein, 56 g carbohydrate, 17 g fat (5 g saturated), 51 mg cholesterol, 227 mg sodium, 7 g fiber.

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Italian Rice Salad With Shrimp

This salad is best when freshly made.

Ingredients (serves 4):

• 12 large unpeeled shrimp
• 1 cup Carnaroli rice
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup minced heart of celery
• 1/3 cup minced red bell pepper
• 1/4 cup minced red onion
• 12 green olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
• 1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley
• Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
• Juice of 1/2 lemon, or to taste

Instructions:

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.
2. Add shrimp; boil until they turn pink, about 2 minutes.
3. Drain, cool and peel. Cut into 1/3-inch pieces.
4. Bring another large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.
5. Add rice; cook until just tender, about 15 minutes. Test often.
6. Drain and rinse under cool water.
7. Drain again and shake dry.
8. Transfer rice to a bowl.
9. Add shrimp, olive oil, celery, bell pepper, onion, olives and parsley.
10. Toss gently and season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Per serving: 285 calories, 8 g protein, 42 g carbohydrate, 9 g fat (1 g saturated), 35 mg cholesterol, 336 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.

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Delfina's Truffled Rice Pudding

From the San Francisco restaurant Delfina, this risotto is luscious even without the truffles and truffle oil. Serve chilled with thin, crisp cookies, such as tuiles. Chef Craig Stoll recommends Carnaroli, but Arborio or Baldo will work as well.

Ingredients (serves 6):

• 1 quart whole milk
• Scant 1/2 cup sugar
• Pinch of salt
• 1/4 vanilla bean, split
• 1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon
• Carnaroli rice
• 3/4 cup creme fraiche
• Truffle oil to taste
• Minced fresh truffles to taste

Instructions:

1. Combine the milk, sugar and salt in a wide, heavy saucepan.
2. Scrape the vanilla bean seeds into the milk, then add the vanilla pod.
3. Bring the milk to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
4. Add the rice, return the milk to a boil, and boil for 1 minute, then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer.
5. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pudding begins to thicken, about 45 minutes.
6. Transfer the pudding to a bowl and set it in a larger bowl of ice water to chill quickly.
7. Stir occasionally until completely cool.
8. Discard the vanilla bean pod.
9. Whip the creme fraiche to soft peaks.
10. Fold it into the pudding, stopping just before it is completely incorporated.
11. Gently stir in truffle oil to taste, perhaps 1/2 teaspoon, then fold in the minced truffles.
12. Serve chilled.

Per serving: 295 calories, 7 g protein, 40 g carbohydrate, 12 g fat (7 g saturated), 35 mg cholesterol, 119 mg sodium, 0 fiber.

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