La Fufi Restaurant: When Simplicity Becomes High Cuisine
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Who said that in order to please one's palate one must seek out paté de foie gras or lobster? Or that a great chef must serve dishes featuring improbable crossover of chemistry and alchemy?
I spent a great gastronomic evening at Cossano Canavese, a small town in the province of Turin, enjoying dishes which expressed the superior food culture of an excellent character, Fulvia 'La Fufi' Steffenone. Fulvia, a nice, young, smiling food trainer, teaches her culinary secrets to the pupils of the Istituto Alberghiero (Hotel and Restaurant School) and passionate amateurs alike, with the goal of teaching "the pleasure of eating healthfully and well," offered some fabulous examples of her great cuisine.
La Fufi Restaurant
Fulvia's secret is using simple ingredients, eliminating butter completely in favor of extra virgin olive oil, choosing seasonal products mostly grown locally, with the addition of lots of love for her profession. The result is excellent entrees, esthetically attractive and inviting, soft and intriguing at the same time, which leave one with the regret of not asking for a second helping (one must mind one's manners).
The meal started with a savory Caprese di mozzarella di bufala, stracchino, ristretto di Pachino e profumato pesto di basilico e mandorle (Capri-Style Salad with Buffalo Mozzarella, Stracchino Cheese and Pachino Tomatoes, Perfumed with Basel and Almond Pesto). The only regret is that it was over in three spoonfuls.
The first hors d'oeuvres in a noteworthy Tartàre di fassone piemontese battuta al coltello (Tartàre of Piedmontese Fassone [type of cow] Beef) with a Mediterranean sauce and emulsion of mustard grains and extra virgin olive oil. What's more simple than this? A deliciously flavorful cut of meat and the prince of seasoning, extra virgin olive oil, and the match is made.
Tartàre of Piedmontese Fassone [type of cow] Beef
The next entree is Millefoglie di caprino con salsa al lattughino e ristretto di pomodoro (Goat Cheese Millefuille with Lettuce and Tomato Sauce), a delicate dish with lukewarm caprino (goat cheese) which enhances the perfume and flavor. The third hors d'oeuvres is a classic entree around here, the Sformatino di asparagi con fonduta e pan brioche (Asparagus Pie with Fondue and Croissant Bread). In this case as well the balance of flavor is the characteristic which defines the dish, with all the ingredients harmonized and complementing each other.
Goat Cheese Millefuille with Lettuce and Tomato Sauce
Asparagus Pie with Fondue and Croissant Bread
Then the dish which draws applause and a buzzing of enthusiastic comments arrives, the Gnocchetti allo zafferano in salsa di salmone e porro (Gnocchetti Pasta with Saffron in Salmon and Leek Sauce).
Gnocchetti Pasta with Saffron in Salmon and Leek Sauce
It has been a long time since I tasted such a well prepared gnocchi. So soft are they that they melted in the mouth amid a harmony of perfumes and flavor provided by the salmon delicately scented by the leek. The "secret' ingredient for this dish is the red potatoes used to make the gnocchi, which provides consistency to the dough without losing softness and flavor.
The Riso Venere in ciotola di parmigiano (Venus Rice in Parmigiano Cheese Bowl), is interesting for its simplicity. The flavor and aroma of the black rice comes from its lengthier than usual cooking in meat stock because it is whole grain, and is perfect to introduce the next entree, the perfectly cooked and soft Arrosto in salsa all'arancia e patate sablè (Roast meat in Orange and Potato Sablè Sauce).
Venus Rice in Parmigiano Cheese Bowl
The unforgettable repast ends with Fragole gratinate (Strawberry Au Gratin) served with a small glass of Zabajone tiepido all'Erbaluce di Caluso (Lukewarm Zabajone Seasoned with Erbaluce di Caluso Wine). Once again what impresses me is the simplicity of the ingredients: strawberries, eggs and a great local dessert wine.
The excellent cuisine of Fulvia Steffenone was complemented by noteworthy wines by a young Sicilian producer whose name we will certainly mention again in years to come, Diego Cummo. Though young, he counts on the family heritage in wine production, which dates back to the great-grandfather with the same name, who founded the Casa Vinicola Sicania estate, which is now run by Diego.
The wines pored during the dinner were:
- Idilliaco (Idyllic) – White wine made with 100% Grillo native grape, with a delicate bouquet of white fruits,
- Ammaliante (Bewitching) – White wine made with 100% Inzolia native grape, which shows floral and exotic fruits aroma,
- Seduzione (Seduction) – A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot refined in French barriques ,
- Puro Desiderio (Pure Desire) – A blend of Nero d'Avola and Syrah which shows important tannins and lengthy persistence in the nose as well as in the mouth.
- Nerosse (Non translatable fantasy name) – Nero d'Avola 100% with persistence and good body, though velvety to the palate with interesting notes of red fruits,
- Dolce Noir (Sweet Black) – Late harvest Nero d'Avola, elegant and palatable, with nuances of red fruit and nuts and 14.5% alcohol content.
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