Road of the Wines Bresciani del Garda - Production Zone of the Lugana Wine
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| Consorzio tutela lugana D.O.C. | ||
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| The Area | ||
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Describing in few lines the merits and beauty of the Lugana DOC area, is a challenging chore. The best possible way to synthesize is by tasting a Lugana DOC wine paired with a delicious recipe featuring tasty fish from the lake, or visiting any Lugana winery along the Strada dei Bresciani del Garda.
The Lugana area, the Lugana wine, and the history
"Crisscrossed by creeks, swamps, beds of reeds and small lakes, upon whose shores come to drink big wild boars, deer, roebucks, doe and ibex. Flocks of birds of every kind fly above them ..." This is how the 'Lugana', the inland of the southern shores of Lake Garda, comprised between Desenzano, Pozzolengo and Lonato in Brescia province, and Peschiera, in Verona province was described some time ago. see map -->
It is widely believed that "Lugana" derives from 'Lucaria' <-- 'Lucanus', dialect deformation of the word 'lucus', or forest. In fact, up to the 1200th century the area was covered with woods, all the way to the lake where it ended in a huge bed of reeds. Other believe that the names comes from the Latin 'lacus lucanus', or "lake in the wood". Or maybe fro 'lacuna', or "lagoon". In a document dated 771, the place was referred to as 'licana'. Due to its location, between the Lombardy and Veneto regions, along an important Roman road in proximity of the main way coming down the Alps from Northern Europe, the place has long been a natural strategic point and has seen battles and wars. Here, in 249 A.D., Decio defeated Filippo. In 268, Claudio beat the Goths. According to the tradition, in 312 Costantino defeated Massenzio, after having a vision of the Holy Cross accompanied by the saying 'in hoc signo vinces', or "with this symbol you'll win", in Latin. In 400, the wood was crossed by Alarico armies and in 461, it was the turn of Attila and the Huns who, the story says, was defeated here by Pope Leone the First.
Evidence of the reclaiming of the land done by the monks in the Middle Ages, is still evident in the towns of San Benedetto di Lugana, San Vigilie di Lugana, San Martino di Lugana and Sirmione. or the heart of today production area. Seeds of vine were found in a pile-dwelling archeological site by the lake shores. Though this is not a sign of wine making, by the sixth or fifth centuries B. C. enology was practiced by the Etruscans, who occupied the plains all the way to the Po river valley. Roman writers, Virgil, Svetonio, Strabone and Pliny among others, made many references to the wine that was produced on the low lands of the Rezi mountain, between Como and Verona, including the Lugana zone. It is impossible though, to know if it was a wine similar to the one produced now.
There's an interesting episode reported by Quintarelli, about a banquet offered to Caesar by the father of Catullus, as a reparation for disrespectful epigrams written by the poet against the dictator. Caesar was so impressed by the wine that it awarded the qualification of 'Panacea from (Lake) Garda'. Catullus owned properties in the area and, up to today, his wonderful Sirmione Villa, known as 'Le Grotte di Catullo', or "Catullus' Grottos", is open to the public. The agronomist Agostino Gallo mentioned the 'Trebulane Grapes' from Lugana in a document from the 16th century. Those grapes were the ancestor of the widely spread Trebbiano vine of today.
Over the centuries, the vine clone underwent several changes. In addition, in an area with such calcareous clay soil, the Trebbiano grapes reach a peculiar ripeness, a fact that lends the wine unexpected quality and 'typicalness'. In his book 'De Naturali Vinorum Historia' (History of Natural Wine), Andrea Bacci, personal physician of Pope Sisto the Fifth, and botany professor in Rome from 1567 to 1600, wrote about the wines from Garda. ".. in Desenzano and Peschiera are produced exquisite 'trebulani' wines," he wrote. Luigi Veronelli, one of today most respected Italian food and wine writer and historian, said of the Lugana wine: "Drink your Lugana young and very young and you'll be pleased by its freshness. Drink it when it is two or three years old and you'll appreciate its completeness. Drink it when it is 10 years old, and you'll be surprised by its authoritative sobriety".
The Lugana wines are made with a specific bio-type of Trebbiano called "di Lugana" (min. 90%). This wine has amazing enological properties. Perfected by local vintners over the centuries, the wines are strongly affected by the soil where the vines are cultivated, in its sapidity, structure, its straightforwardness and the harmony of perfumes and flavors, stunning in their intensity and character.
Lugana is a small, wonderful zone next to the southern shores of Lake Garda. From Desenzano, it encompasses Sirmione and Peschiera and continues inland up to Pozzolengo and Lonato. It is a truly limited production area, just a little over 1,482 acres (600 hectares), but all flavor of Lugana wines, the traditional, Superiore, or Spumante, are more and more appreciated in Italy and worldwide. The color of the wine ranges from the typical brilliant straw yellow, to greenish highlights that reach golden tones with age.
The perfume is immediately recognizable, because of the well balanced notes which anticipate the unmistakably sapid and well structured flavor, dry and great personality. Because of its valuable characteristics, the white Lugana can be produced as Superiore, aged for at least one year before release. This particular type of Lugana wine presents exceptional surprises to the taste, with its intensity and openness, the suggestion of fresh spices, flowers and ripe fruits, very sapid, structured, persistent and with an unbelievably long life for a white wine. It can easily last few years in bottle, reaching completeness, as Veronelli might say.
The Lugana wine makes for an enticing aperitif. It is a delight with hors d'oeuvres Italian style and perfect when paired with fish from the lake, particularly with coregone (type of trout from the lake) or eel. Should be served in medium "tulip" glass at 46.4-53.5° F. (8-12° C.).
The Lugana Superiore is best at 53.6-57.2° F. (12-14° C.). Excellent paired with elegant, delicate recipes of any kind, sweet cheeses and traditional cold cuts.
The Lugana Spumante DOC is made either according to the Charmat or the Classic methods. Straw yellow in color, its perlage is lively and consistent, the scent is fresh and intense, with notes of yeast and memory of fermentation. To the palate, it presents the typical harmony of the Lugana wines, sapid, dry and vigorous. It may be served as an aperitif, paired with delicate entries and fish dishes. It should be served in flûte at (42.8-46.4° F. (6-8° C.).
- Secretarial Offices of the Consortium for the
Guardianship of the Lugana D.O.C. wines
Viale MarconiNº 2
25019 Sirmione, Brescia, Italy
Tel. / Fax: 030/916171
Contact the Consortium
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