Cold Cuts: Capocollo di Calabria DOP
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Introduction
Here we continue our introduction of Italy's 155 Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta) products.
This month we are presenting two types of cold cuts, the Capocollo di Calabria DOP, made with pork meat, and the Bresaola della Valtellina IGP from Lombardy, made with the muscular mass of veal and, sometimes, horse.
Capocollo di Calabria DOP (Calabria)
Protected Designations of Origin: Reg. CE n.134/98
Characteristics of the Product
Highly valued cut of pork, consisting of the upper part of the legs of Calabria bred pigs. The cut of meat selected for this typical kind salami must have a 3 to 4 millimeter (0.118 to 0.157 inches) layer of white fat, to keep the whole meat soft while ageing, and at the same time improve the product's organoleptic characteristics.
After complete removal of the bones, the meat is salted for a period of four to eight days, after which the capocollo is washed with water, dried and moistened in wine. Next comes the hand 'massage' and 'pressure' of the meat, followed by the addition of black pepper grains, or crushed red chile pepper, before wrapping it in pork intestine. The last step is the traditional tying with organic strings, running the mini-rope around the length of the salami, before piercing the wrapping.
Ageing must take place in temperature-and humidity-controlled rooms, thus limiting the development of microbic flora while facilitating the slow maturation of the product, which will last at least 90 days, but is often protracted to around 15 weeks.
The initial weight must be between 3.5 and 4.5 kilograms (7.71 and 9.92 pounds).
The Capocollo di Calabria DOP color ranges from pinkish to red, depending on the use of either black pepper or crushed chile pepper. The color of the slice is a lively, brilliant, deep pink, with the fat marbling typical of the specific cut of pork. The flavor is delicate and gets better with ageing, and the perfume is characteristic, pleasant and complex.
- Production Zone:
The whole Calabria region.
Bresaola della Valtellina IGP (Lombardy)
Protected Geographical Indication: Reg. CE n. 2036/01.
Characteristics of the Product
The origin of the name bresaola is uncertain. According to some, the name is a derivation from brasa, or 'ember' in local dialect, making a reference to the braziers used in ancient times to warm up and de-humidify the air inside the ageing rooms. According to others though, the name derives from the Valtellina dialect word brisa, which defines a savory gland found in beef.
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The Bresaola della Valtellina is a type of raw cold cut. Typically it consists of the salted and aged muscular mass of beef, however there are versions made with horse meat.
The parts of the beef thigh which, once separated from the bone, becomes brersaola are the following:
- fesa, which is the medium-back part of the thigh muscles;
- punta d'anca, which corresponds to part of the fesa without muscle;
- sottofesa, which is the side of the back thigh;
- megatello, or the side muscles of the thigh;
- sottosso, or the front part of the thigh muscles.
The cuts used to produce the bresaola are neatly trimmed in order to cut away the external fat and the external tendons, being careful not to cut into the meat.
The seasoning with salt is done according the so-called 'dry' method, by adding sodium chloride and natural aromas for a period of 10 to 15 days, depending on the weight. The saltiness is generated with the meat juice. Each single piece is then traditionally enclosed in intestines, however the use of synthetic wrapper is allowed.
The meat takes about one week to dry, and it must start with a quick dehydration during the first few days.
Ageing must take place in climate-controlled rooms with optimized aeration and a temperature of 12° to 15°C. (53.6° to 59°F.). The ageing period, including drying, lasts from 4 to 8 weeks, depending on the size of the product, what the market favors and the type of meat. Aerating and artificially controlling the natural humidity according to the climate at production time is allowed.
During the drying and ageing phases, natural fermentative enzymatic processes take place which make the product long lasting, digestible and appetizing.
The final shape of the product is typical of the cut used, though they can be manipulated at length, shaping them into vague cylinders.
The final product must by consistent, firm and resilient. When sliced it must be compact, without cracks or imperfections. The slice is uniformly red, with a slightly darker edge in the lean part and white in the fatty part. The perfume is delicate and lightly aromatic. To the palate the taste is pleasant and moderately savory.
- Production Zone:
The Lombardy province of Sondrio. - Producers' Organization:
Consortium of the Bresaola della Valtellina
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