Introduction, ABTM and Aceto Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia DOP
Loris Scagliarini - August 19, 2006




The Classifications
 
  • PDO (Protected Designation of Origin)
    Protected Designation of OriginThe products under this designation are the ones that are affected mostly by the place where they grew and/or were produced, or the French concept of terroir, that is, a sense of place identifiable in the flavor, perfume and/or texture of the food. PDO products must be produced, processed, and prepared in a specific region using traditional production methods. The raw materials must also be from the defined area whose name the product bears. The products' quality or characteristics must be due essentially or exclusively to their place of origin, i.e., climate, the nature of the soil, and local know-how. Examples are Kalamata olives, Prosciutto di Parma, and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
    (In Italian this designation is DOP for food and DOC for wines).

  • PGI (Protected Geographical Indication)
    Protected Geographical IndicationThis category allows for some freedom compared to PDO, however the products in this category must be either produced, processed, or prepared in the geographical region mentioned on the label. It is not mandatory that the materials used grow or be produced in the designated area, it is necessary that at least one of the stages of production, processing or preparation occurred in the defined area. Such flexible links to the place allow the producer to focus on a specific quality, reputation, or other characteristics that can be linked to that geographical origin.
    (In Italian this designation is IGP for food and IGT for wines).
Introduction
The vast majority of Italian wines are food friendly, made to be enjoyed with some of the best products of the Mediterranean diet. Because of the country's geography and history, Italian cuisine changes from region to region, from city to city and, sometimes, from town to town. 

When traveling in Italy, it's possible drive just a few miles and have dinner at a different traditional restaurant (or osteria, or trattoria) from the one where lunch was eaten and find that the 'local' cuisine is fairly different, as well as the 'local' wine.

In Italy the definition 'local food and wine' is true to the meaning of the word in a very geographically restricted way.

In addition, Italy has the largest number of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta) products of Europe. In fact, Italy produces 155 between DOP and IGP products, while the rest of Europe produces collectively 135 such products. As for wines, Italy counts on 314 DOC and 118 IGT wines.

For this reason we have decided to start a new column entitled 'Beyond Wine', where every month we introduce one or more Italian typical PDO or PGI products.

We will start with two products similar to each other and very much unknown, in their original true version, because of imitations: from the respectable to the downright misleading and totally fake balsamic vinegar, which can be found in supermarkets, grocery stores and restaurants worldwide. In reality, the Aceto Tradizionale di Modena DOP (ABTM, or Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Modena DOP), and its 'cousin', the Aceto Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia DOP (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia DOP), are the only recognized balsamic vinegar.



Aceto Tradizionale di Modena DOP (ABTM)
The Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Modena DOP is a condiment made exclusively with cooked must (grape juice), and has no other aromatic substances added. It must be made with freshly crushed grape juice from bunches produced in vineyards of the following vines:

  • Lambrusco (all varieties and clones)
  • Ancellotta
  • Trebbiano (all varieties and clones)
  • Sauvignon
  • Sgavetta
  • Berzemino
  • Occhio di Gatta
  • Grapes from vines registered for the DOC production in the province of Modena.
ABTM - Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena
The production steps: harvesting, soft crushing, cooking the must, ageing

The final product has dark, deep, brilliant brown color, sharp, characteristic perfume with pleasant, harmonic acidity and syrupy density. The flavor is a perfect balance of sweet and sour and the bouquet is affected by the wood of the barrels where it was aged.

  Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena
 
Tradition and design united to create a glass cruet that, in its upper part only, reprises the ancient shape while the base looks almost like a pedestal set in the spherical surface. The packaging reproduces the historical symbology of the Modena seasoning (the shape of the Cathedral and the vinegar barrel) as a texture all over the surface of the packaging-case.

The Aceto Tradizionale di Modena DOP (ABTM) is marketed in special 100-milliliter bottles created by the famed Giugiaro designer team, in a shape designed to optimize the conservation of quality over time. The disciplinare, or set of rules which strictly define all the production steps , forbid the mention of the production year in the label. The Aceto Tradizionale di Modena may add the definition extravecchio (extra old) when aged 25 years or longer.

The certifying organization is CERMET SOC. CONS. A R.L..

In a nutshell, the true ABTM is identified by:

  • Special bottle
  • The word 'Tradizionale'
    (It's illegal for a non-certified balsamic vinegar to use the wording 'aceto balsamico tradizionale' in the label)
  • PDO (DOP) classification
  • Ingredients
    (This is a good tip which will help you in identifying good balsamic vinegar marketed without certification, thus in different containers than the special Giugiaro-designed bottle. If the product contains other ingredients in addition to cooked must (grape juice), such as caramel or other aromatic substances, the product is a cheap imitation, produced commercially 'overnight'.

To find out more:



  Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia
 
The bottle is reminiscent of an upside-down tulip and features labels in three different colors, which identify the quality of the product: Aragosta (Lobster), Argento (Silver), and Oro (Gold).

Aceto Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia DOP
The Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia DOP is obtained by simple sugar and acetic fermentation of cooked must (grape juice), followed by extended ageing in sets of barrels of different sizes and wood. The minimum ageing period for the balsamic vinegar to be certified 'tradizionale' must be no less than 12 years. The Aceto Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia DOP must be made with the following grapes:

  • Lambrusco (all varieties and clones)
  • Ancellotta
  • Trebbiano (all varieties and clones)
  • Sauvignon
  • Sgavetta
  • Berzemino
  • Occhio di Gatta
  • Grapes from vines registered for the DOC production in the province of Reggio Emilia.

The final product has limpid, bright, dark brown color, consistent density with flowing, syrupy viscosity. The perfume is sharp and persistent, fragrant with pleasant acidity with characteristic bouquet depending on the wood of the barrels where it was aged. The flavor is a good blend of sweet and sour with good acidity.

Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia
The production steps: harvesting, cooking the must, ageing

The Aceto Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia DOP is marketed in special 100-milliliter bottles was shape guarantee the conservation of quality over time. As for the more famous 'cousin' from Modena, the disciplinare, or set of rules which strictly define all the production steps , forbid the mention of the production year in the label, and the definition extravecchio (extra old) may be added when the product is aged for 25 years or longer.

The certifying organization is SUOLO E SALUTE SRL.

In a nutshell, the true Aceto Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia DOP is identified by:

  • Special bottle
  • The word 'Tradizionale'
    (It's illegal for a non-certified balsamic vinegar or condiment to use the word in the label)
  • DOP classification
  • Ingredients
    (This is a good tip for identifying good balsamic vinegar marketed without certification. If the product contains any other ingredients in addition to cooked must (grape juice), such as caramel or other aromatic substances, the product is a cheap imitation, produced commercially 'overnight'.

To find out more:



Interesting Tip
Both the Aceto Tradizionale di Modena DOP (ABTM) and Aceto Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia DOP, are excellent digestive and soothers for upset stomach. Instead of Pepto Bismol or similar drugs, try a few drops of 12-year-old aceto balsamico tradizionale, you'll be surprised and, best of all, the product is totally natural.

Recipes
• Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Modena Recipes (Word doc 1,000Kb)
• Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Modena Recipes (Adobe PDF 1,008Kb)

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