Formaggella del Luinese DOP and
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Introduction
Here we continue our presentation of Italy's 155 products of Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta).
This month we present one goat cheese from Lombardy, the Formaggella del Luinese DOP, and a particular cheese made with sheep milk from the coastal area of Romagna and the hills of Marches, the Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano DOP.
Formaggella del Luinese DOP (Lombardy)
Protected Designations of Origin: March 8, 2006
There are numerous historic documents reporting the production of cheese, including the formaggella di capra (little goat cheese), in the lake region of Lombardy, north of Milan. As an example, we can point to "the shopping list made by the priests of Valtravaglia on the occasion of the visit of Much Distinguished Monsignor Cardinal Borromeo in the month of August of the year 1596," which includes also a note about the fact that "a few pound of cheese were served regularly at the lunch and dinners offered to Cardinal Federico Borromeo". Or the 17th century treatise which mentions the "specious cheese made in Valtravaglia".
Fast forward a little over a century to 1710, when the writer Vagliano quotes the "precious cheeses" of Porto Valtravaglia. Fast forward another century and, in 1814, Luigi Boniforti writes about it in his book 'Il Lago Maggiore e dintorni con viaggi ai laghi e ai monti circonvicini' ('The Lake Maggiore and surroundings with Journeys to the Lakes and Nearby Mountains').
Production Phases
The milk used to make the Formaggella del Luinese DOP comes from three consecutive milking, preserved at a maximum temperature of 4°C. (39.2F.). The milk is then warmed up either with wood or gas heaters, or with steam and added with curdle at a temperature from 32°C. (89.6°F.) 34°C. (93.2°F.) for 30 to 40 minutes.
The allowed salting process is allowed either dry or in brine, and afterwards the wheels of cheese are left to dry at room temperature. The ageing lasts minimum 20 days in humidity controlled rooms at the maximum and temperature of 15°C. (59°F.), or in cellar which offer the requested level of humidity and temperature naturally.
Characteristics of the Product
The Formaggella del Luinese DOP is a soft cheese which comes in wheels with a diameter from 13 to 15 centimeters (5.11 to 5.9 inches), and weigh from 700 to 900 grams (1.54 to 1.98 pounds). The rind is soft, and may show a little mildew. When sliced, the color is white and the consistency is soft, yet compact. The flavor is pleasant and sweet, with a delicate aroma which tends to get stronger as the cheese ages.
Gastronomy and Wine Pairing
The Formaggella del Luinese DOP is excellent served in mixed hors d'oeuvres platters and in the preparation of delicate risotto. The ideal pairing is with lightly sparkling or dry white wines, such as the Trebbiano dell'Emilia IGT
dell'Azienda Garuti, Arneis delle Langhe DOC, or Soave Classico DOC.
- Production Zone:
The municipalities of the Comunità Montana (Mountain Communities) of Val Ceresio, Val Cuvia, Valganna and Valmarchiroloas well as the Luinese Valleys, which include:
• Agra,
• Arcisate,
• Azzio,
• Bedero Valcuvia,
• Besano,
• Bisuschio,
• Brenta,
• Brezzo di Bedero,
• Brinzio,
• Brissago Valtravaglia,
• Brusimpiano,
• Cadegliano Viconago,
• Cantello,
• Casalzuigno,
• Cassano Valcuvia,
• Castello Cabiaglio,
• Castelveccana,
• Cittiglio,
• Clivio,
• Cocquio Trevisago,
• Cremenaga,
• Cuasso al Monte,
• Cugliate Fabiasco,
• Cunardo,
• Curiglia con Monteviasco,
• Cuveglio,
• Cuvio,
• Dumenza,
• Duno,
• Ferrera di Varese,
• Gavirate,
• Gemonio,
• Germignaga,
• Grantola,
• Induno Olona,
• Lavena Ponte Tresa,
• Laveno Mombello,
• Luino,
• Maccagno,
• Marchirolo,
• Marzio,
• Masciago Primo,
• Mesenzana,
• Montegrino Valtravaglia,
• Orino,
• Pino sulla Sponda del Lago Maggiore,
• Porto Ceresio,
• Porto Valtravaglia,
• Rancio Valcuvia,
• Saltrio,
• Tronzano Lago Maggiore,
• Valganna,
• Veddasca,
• Viggiù.
Plus the plains municipalities which are part of the same districts of the Mountain Communities mentioned above, or:
• Barasso,
• Comerio,
• Luvinate,
• Varese.
Finally it includes the plains municipalities of:
• Bardello,
• Besozzo,
• Brebbia,
• Bregano,
• Biandronno,
• Caravate,
• Casciago,
• Leggiuno,
• Malgesso,
• Monvalle,
• Sangiano e
• Travedona-Monate. - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio per la tutela della Formaggella del Luinese DOP
Via Battaglia di San Martino 21030 - Cuveglio (VA)
Tel. +39 338 7811248 - For more information:
Download the official PDF presentation (in Italian only, 1,9 Mb)
Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano DOP
(Emilia Romagna and Marches)
Protected Designations of Origin: 2009
The name of the Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano (Pit Cheese from Sogliano) DOP comes from the fact the the cheese it is laid to age in special underground spaces caved into the tuff of the hills of Sogliano al Rubicone, a municipality in the province of Forlì-Cesena, called 'fosse', or 'pits'.
It is believed that the tradition to bury the cheese in these dips during the final part of the ageing, from mid August to the 25th of November, dates back to the 15th century, because of the need by the peasants to hide the cheese to the conflicting soldiers which roamed the area during the war between the king, Charles VII of France, and Ferdinand I of Naples.
Production Phases
The dips dug in the tuff are shaped approximately like a flask, are about three meters (around 10 feet), have a diameter of about two meters (6.5 feet) at the base and 80 centimeters (2.6 feet) at the mouth.
The dips are prepared in advance by first burning a fire inside it, then a reed infrastructure is set up, the walls are covered with fresh hay, and wood planks are laid at the bottom.
The wheels of cheese are then stored inside white canvas sacks and laid one on top of the other inside the dip which, when filled to the brim, it is sealed by laying wooden planks on top of the sacks and covered with sand. The cheese-filled bags are then taken out on November 25th, the day dedicated by the Catholic calendar to Saint Catherine of Alexandria.
The laying of cheese-filled white canvas sacks into the dip
Characteristics of the Product
The Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano DOP has an irregular shape. The rind is ivory white in color, and the inside has light amber or straw nuances, with little holes in it. In the mouth it has a strong, slightly spicy flavor. The perfume it is characteristically typical and persistent, with a rich aroma which reminds the undergrowth, with notes of mildew and truffle.
Wine Pairing
It pairs well with local red wines, such as Rosso Piceno, Sangiovese from Romagna, and Burson, but it is very pleasant also paired with a good Chianti, or structured reds such as the Monferrato DOC Infinito by Poderi Rosso Giovanni, or the Monteregio di Massa Marittima DOC from Fattoria Coliberto.
- Production Zone:
The Romagna-Marches Apennine area comprised within the provinces of Forlì-Cesena and Pesaro-Urbino. - Producers' Organization:
CO.PRO.FO.S. Consorzio Produttori Formaggi Stagionati
Piazzetta Garibaldi, 10 - 47030 Sogliano al Rubicone (FC)
Tel. 333.6664323
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