Salame di Varzi DOP and
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Introduction
Here we continue our presentation of Italy's 155 products of Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta).
This month we present two DOP salamis made with pork: Salame di Varzi DOP and the Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora DOP.
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Salame di Varzi DOP (Lombardy)
Protected Designations of Origin: REG. CE n.110/96
Some History
The origin of the Salame di Varzi (salami from Varzi) DOP is not clear, but it is believed to date back to the Lombard times. It is certain that in the 13th century, this cold cut was served at the tables of the Marquis Malaspina, the noble Italian family of Lombard lineage who, at that time, dominated the Lunigiana and later, in the 14th century, the Duchy of Massa and Carrara.
The quality of this cold cut is due to the optimal mix of the ingredients, the production techniques perfected for centuries by the local farmers, and the favorable microclimate, due to the contrasting effect of the sea breeze which blows inland from the Liguria coastline, and the cooler mountain air of the Stàffora Valley.
Production Phases
Salame di Varzi DOP is made exclusively with most valuable cuts of pork, such as the leg, shoulder, loin, coppa, and filet, with the addition of cheeks and bacon for the fat parts. The proportion of the various cuts is established in the production rules and is currently overseen by the Consorzio di Tutela (Consortium for the Protection of the Salame di Varzi DOP.)
Panorama of Varzi, amid the Oltrepò Pavese hills
The meat is chopped coarsely and seasoned with sea salt, grains of black pepper, spices, garlic and red wine. The mix thus obtained is extruded into the pork casings, which have been soaked in water at length and washed with water and vinegar. The use of synthetic casing is allowed for the Salame di Varzi DOP which will be sold pre-packaged in chunks or sliced.
The next step is the stufatura, or ripening process, at a controlled temperature of 18° to 26°C. (64.4° to 78.8°F.), which lasts from one to four days,depending on the size of the salami. After the stufatura, they are hung to dry in well aerated rooms with controlled humidity and temperature, which must not be higher then 20°C. (68°F.)
The final phase is the maturation, which can last from a minimum of 22 days for the smaller salami, known as cacciatori (hunters) and weighing from 100 to 200 grams (3.5 to 7 ounces), up to 90 days and longer for the larger salamis encased in double bowels with a weight from 1 to 2 kilograms (2.2 to 4.4 pounds) and more. The Salame di Varzi DOP ages in the ancient cellars of Varzi, which offer a natural setting with a unique microclimate, with temperatures between 10° and 12° C. (50° to 53.6° F.), and 95% humidity. During the maturation the salamis are periodically brushed to remove the mold which forms on the outside, thus favoring the transpiration of the casing which results in the optimal maturation of the meat.
Characteristics of the Product and Pairing
The slice has a deep red color dotted by the fat parts and the flavor is pleasantly aromatic, full and savory. It is not advised to slice this type of salami with a bacon-slicer. It should rather be sliced fairly thickly a becco di clarinetto (in the shape of a clarinet reed), as it is done traditionally in the small stores of the Oltrepò Pavese villages.
The Salame di Varzi DOP is appreciated paired with vegetables preserved in olive oil and cheese, pairing the meal with vino novello, Bonarda or, as Gianni Brera use to say, with a good glass of Moscato wine.
- Production Zone:
Fifteen municipalities in the Oltrepò Pavese mountain area of Lombardy: Bagnaria, Brallo di Pregòla, Cecima, Fortunago, Godiasco, Menconico, Montesegale, Ponte Nizza, Rocca Susella, Romagnese, Santa Margherita di Stàffora, Val di Nizza, Valverde, Varzi, and Zavattarello. - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio di Tutela del Salame di Varzi DOP
Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora DOP (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Lombardy,
Piedmont, Emilia Romagna, Umbria, Tuscany, Marches, Abruzzo, Latium and Molise)
Protected Designations of Origin: DOP: Reg. CE n. 1778/01
Some History
The origin of the Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora (Small Salami Hunter Style) DOP dates back to the Lombard migration period, because they needed a long lasting and portable food during their migration south. The production of this type of small salami started in the hilly area of today's Lombardy, from where it spread to the neighboring northern regions.
Hunters used to carry these small salami with them during their hunting outings, and this tradition determined both the name of this cold cut
and its small size, originally due to the ease with which they could be carried.
Characteristics of the Product
The Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora DOP have the shape of a 20 centimeters (around 7.9 inches) long cylinder, weigh around 350 grams (12.3 ounces), and have a diameter of 6
centimeters (2.4 inches). They are made with mixed lean and fat pork meat, are compact and their consistency is not pliant.
The slice is compact and homogeneous, ruby red in color with well distributed white dots of fat. The perfume is delicate and characteristic, and the flavor is sweet and delicate.
- Production Zone:
Eleven Italian regions: Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, Emilia Romagna, Umbria, Tuscany, Marches, Abruzzo, Latium, and Molise. - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio Cacciatore
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