Fiore Sardo DOP e Fontina DOP
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Introduction
Here we continue our presentation of Italy's 155 products of Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta).
This month we present two DOP cheeses which are very different from each other: the Fiore Sardo DOP (Sardinian Flower), which is characteristically strongly flavored, and Fontina DOP, a sweet, delicate cheese produced in the Alps, in the Aosta Valley autonomous region, which is in the extreme northwest of Italy.
Fiore Sardo DOP (Sardinia)
Protected Designations of Origin: July 1, 1996
Shepherding in Sardegna was already practiced during the Nurage civilization, which dates back to before the first millennium B.C. and the Fiore Sardo, one of the best known and appreciated cheese produced on the island, is made with milk from the Sardinian native variety of sheep. The oldest known documents which mention this cheese are from the 18th century.
The Fiore Sardo DOP is a raw, hard cheese, produced exclusively with whole, fresh sheep milk, curdled with sheep rennet or, rarely, with goat rennet.
Production Phases
To this day, the Fiore Sardo DOP is mostly produced with traditional methods which have been used for centuries, by the shephards directly where the sheep are milked.
After each miking, the milk is processed without undergoing any treatment and, often, the rennet used to curdle the cheese is produced in house as well. The curdle is then transferred into the characteristicl forms which shape the cheese wheel. At this point the process known as scottatura (scolding) takes place. This consists of dipping the cheese in hot water for an extremely short time. This is done to help the production, thickness, and resistance of the rind. The following salting stage, which is done partly with brine and partly dry, lasts for a different period of time, depending on the size of the wheel.
The cheese is then left for the first part of ripening on bambu trellises which are hung over the fireplace to dry the wheels and slightly smoke them. The aging is then completed in different rooms, or in designated spaces in the attic. During the hot season the wheels of Fiore Sardo DOP are transfered to special underground rooms, usually in the inland mountain areas. During this period the wheels are periodically turned over and massaged with olive oil, to which sometimes sheep fat is added. In total, the aging lasts up to six months.
Characteristics of the Product
The finished product has the shape of two truncated cones joined at the base. It is 12 to 15 centimeters tall (4.72 to 5.9 inches), has a diameter of 12 to 20 centimeters (4.72 to 7.87 inches), weghts from 1.5 to 4 kilograms (3.3 to 8.8 pounds), and the rind color varies from deep yellow to dark brown. The slice is typically compact, straw yellow or white in color, and the flavor is more or less spicy depending on the length of the maturation. In addition to being served as main course on the island, the Fiore Sardo DOP is excellent served at the end of the meal, especially paired with the bitter Strawberry Tree (Arbutus Unedo) honey produced on the island. In addition, it is excellent grated on pasta dishes, or used instead of Pecorino or Grana Padano cheese in the preparation of the pesto alla genovese.
Wine Pairing
The less aged Fiore Sardo DOP pairs well with local, young Cannonau di Sardegna DOC and Capo Ferrato, while for the more aged, tangy version, it is advisable to serve aged Cannonau di Sardegna, Malvasia di Bosa, Mandrolisai, or also the sweet, delicious Moscato di Sorso Sennori. For pairing with non Sardinian wines, choose Chianti, Barbera or Primitivo di Manduria for the less aged version, while for the more mature Fiore Sardo DOP serve Valdichiana DOC, Monteregio di Massa Marittima DOC, Monferrato Rosso DOC, or full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, when served as main course, or Passito di Pantelleria, Raboso or Recioto di Soave if served at the end of the meal.
- Production Zone:
The Sardinian provinces of Cagliari, Nuoro, Oristano and Sassari. - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio volontario per la tutela del formaggio Pecorino Fiore Sardo
Gavoi (Nuoro)
Fontina DOP (Aosta Valley)
Protected Designations of Origin: June 12, 1996
There are various reports which trace cheesemaking in the Aosta Valley back to ancient times, and written documents dating back to the 18th century. The oldest known document which mentions a cheese called Fontina is dated 1717, and was found in the archives of the Gran San Bernardo hospice.
The Fontina DOP is a soft, sweet cheese identified by the ink branding with which the Consorzio di Tutela (Consortium for the Protection), marks each wheel which matches the standard quality required by law.
Production Phases
The non skimmed milk used to produce the Fontina DOP comes from the same milking of Pezzata Rossa and Pezzata Nera Valdostana (Aosta Valley Spotted Red and Spotted Black) cow races, and must be processed not later than two hours after milking. To this day, the milk is poured in boilers, curdled and transformed using techniques which date back several centuries. Thermal processes of pasteurization aimed at reducing the microbial content of the milk are strictly forbidden, with great advantage to the flavor, aroma and quality of the finished product.
During the first three months of maturation, the wheels are laid on wooden shelves of fir and turned over daily, alternating a day dedicated to salting with a day dedicated to cleaning the surfaces of the wheels with brushes dipped in salted water. Dry salting, which is used more often than brine salting, ends when the wheels have absorbed about 2% of salt, while the cleaning of the wheels continues until aging is completed. The maturation process lasts from 4 to 5 months, or the time needed for the cheese to become soft and melting, with the typical sweet, delicate flavor.
The progressive maturation, which is visually marked by the progressive darkening of the rind, until it reaches the characteristic brown color, takes place in environment with particular characteristics. Since the temperature and humidity must facilitate a series of biochemical transformations essential for the cheese to acquire the required organoleptic characteristics, the wheels are left to age in underground passageways, caves, former army bunkers, or abandoned mines.
Characteristics of the Product
The Fontina DOP wheel ready for the market is round and flat, with a diameter of 30 to 45 centimeters (11.8 to 15,75 inches), is from 7 to 10 centimeters (2.75 to 3.93 inches) toll, and weights an average of 8 to 10 kilos (17.63 to 22 pounds), though in some cases, it may weigh as much as 18 kilos (939.68 pounds). The rind is thin, from ochre to dark brown in color. The cheese is soft, but consistent and pliant, and the typical straw yellow color is more intense in the wheels produced in summertime. The flavor is typically sweet, with varied nuances depending on the maturation period and the characteristics of the fields where the cows are raised, but in any case it is always sweet, without bitter or spicy nuances.
In addition to being the main ingredient of the local fonduta (fondue) recipe, thanks to its consistency and because it melts at the temperature pd 60°C. (140°F.), despite its high fat content the Fontina DOP is an excellent table cheese as well.
Wine Pairing
Valle d'Aosta Chambave Rosso, Valle d'Aosta Donnas, Valle d'Aosta Nus Rosso and Valle d'Aosta Pinot Nero. For pairing with wines from other regions, Monica di Sardegna, Dry Lambrusco, Tuscan Merlot, and Lacryma Christi Rosso are suggested among others.
- Production Zone:
Aosta Valley region - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio Produttori Fontina
Piazza Arco d'Augusto, 10
11100 Aosta
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