Salame di Cremona IGP and
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Here we continue our presentation of Italy's 155 products of Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta).
This month we present two IGP salames from Lombardy: the Salame di Cremona IGP (Salami from Cremona IGP) and the rare, delicious Salame d'Oca di Mortara IGP (Goose Salami from Mortara IGP).
Salame di Cremona (Salami from Cremona IGP, Lombardy)
Protected Geographical Indication: Reg. CE n. 1362 del 23.11.07
Some History
Historic documents on the origins of this traditional product and the commerce of pig and pork products between Cremona and nearby communities dating back to 1231 are filed at the Archivio di Stato (State Archives) in Cremona.
Documents dating back to Renaissance filed in the Litterarum and Fragmentorum archives highlight the importance of the salami produced within the area of the current IGP production zone even back then. In particular, notes about the visit of Bishop Cesare Speciano (1599-1607) to local female convent, reveals that in "daily life", "when eating meat was allowed", among other foods the sisters ate a certain amount of locally produced salami.
Production Phases
The Salame di Cremona IGP is produced with pork meat of the Italian Large White, Italian Landrace and Italian Duroc varieties, or hybrid varieties, that is, pigs born from sows of different varieties, as long as they are bred according to the rules described by the Libro Genealogico Italiano (Italian Genealogical Book) for the production of the suino pesante (heavy swine). In addition, the pigs must come from the regions of Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, Emilia Romagna, Umbria, Tuscany, Marches, Abruzzo, Latium and Molise, must be killed between nine and 15 months of age, and weigh between 144 and 176 kilograms (about 317.5 and 388 pounds.)
The meat used to make the Salame di Cremona IGP from the bone muscles and the striped adipose muscles, after they have been thoroughly cleaned, removing all connective and soft adipose tissues, as well as lymph nodes and nerves. The meat is grownd with 6-mllimeter grinders (0.236 inches), at a controlled temperature which must not be above 0°C (32°F.) It is absolutely forbidden to use meat separated mechanically from the rest of the flesh.
The meat is seasoned with salt, spices, black pepper in grains or roughly grownd, and crushed garlic. Other optional ingredients include dry red or white wine, sugar, dextrose, fructose, lactose, fermentation culture agents, sodium and/or potassium nitrite, ascorbic acid and sodium salt.
The meat is salted at butchering time, while the other ingredients are added to the grownd meat, which is then filled into pork, cow, sheep, or horse guts, whose diameter must be at least 65 millimeters (about 2.56 inches) and at least 15 centimeter (5.9 inches) long. The salamis are then tied with strings, either manually or mechanically and stored at a controlled temperature of 2 to 10°C (35.6 to 50°F) for no longer than 24 hours, then left to dry in rooms at 15 to 25°C (59 to 77°F). Ageing takes place at the temperature of 11 to 16°C (51.8 to 60.8°F) for a period of time which varies according to the original size of the gut used, but cannot last less than five weeks.
Characteristics
The aged Salame di Cremona IGP must weigh at least 500 grams. The slice is compact and homogeneous, with intense red color. The perfume is typical and reminiscent of spices.
- Production Zone:
Lombardy, Emilia Romagna, Piedmont and Veneto. The climate in the production area is characterized by a relatively rigid fall and winter, followed by temperate, rainy springs. Summer is war, with occasional high temperatures and frequent, intense, short-lasting rain. - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio di Tutela del Salame Cremona IGP
Piazza Zelioli Lanzini, 1
26100 Cremona
Tel. 0372/598251
Salame d'Oca di Mortara (Goose Salami from Mortara IGP, Lombardy)
Protected Geographical Indication: Reg. CE n.1165/04 (GUCE L. 224/04 del 25.06.2004)
The Salame d'Oca di Mortara IGP is produced with goose born, raised and butchered in the Lombardy, Piedmont, Emilia Romagna, Veneto, Trentino Alto Adige and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions. The weight of the birds must be at least 4 kilograms (about 8.82 pounds), and for the last three months before being butchered, they must be fed fresh grass and dried grains only.
The goose meat is mixed with pork meat from pigs raised and butchered in the Abruzzo, Emilia Romagna, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Latium, Lombardy, Marches, Molise, Piedmont, Tuscany, Veneto and Umbria regions, according to the production rules mandated for the Prosciutto di Parma DOP or Prosciutto di San Daniele DOP.
Despite the fact that the production of this kind of salami currently includes the addition of pork, originally only goose meat was used in its preparation, and was created in the 15th century to respect the Jewish prohibition of eating pork meat.
The modern Salame d'Oca di Mortara IGP is made with around one third lean gooe meat, about one third lean pork, such as shoulder or other lean cuts, and the remaining third of fat pork, such as the cuts usually used to make pancetta (Italian bacon) or guanciale. (pork cheek.)
The preparation is similar to that of other Italian salamis. The duck and pork meat is grownd and mixed together with salt, pepper and various spices and herbs. The mixture is then wrapped in goose skin, hand-sewn, tied, and bound in cloth. After drying for a few days, it is first pierced, then cooked in hot, though not boiling, water.
The slice reveals the nature of the different meats, with the white fat contrasting the dark red of the goose meat and the pink of lean pork meat.
The Salame d'Oca di Mortara IGP can be served either cold or warm, paired with mashed potatoes or mashed vegetables.
- Production Zone:
The municipality of Mortara, in the province of Pavia. - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio di Tutela del Salame d’Oca di Mortara
Corso Camillo Benso Cavour n° 73
27036 - Mortara (PV)
Tel: 0384 99356
Fax: 0384 99357
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