Zafferano dell'Aquila DOP and
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Introduction
Here we continue our introduction of Italy's 155 Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta) products.
This month we present saffron, the most expensive spice in the whole world, which costs more per gram than any known drug or any other food product. Italy produces two varieties which were awarded the DOP recognition by the European Communion: the Zafferano dell'Aquila DOP from the Abruzzo region, and the Zafferano di San Gimignano DOP from Tuscany.
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Zafferano dell'Aquila DOP (Abruzzo)
Protected Designations of Origin: Reg. CE n. 205 del 4.02.05 - GUCE L. 33 del 5.02.05
The Zafferano dell'Aquila DOP (Saffron from Aquila, Denomination of Origin Protected) is a spice derived from the dried flower of the saffron crocus (Crocus Sativus L.,), a plant of the family Iridaceae. The flower has six six pink-violet-colored petals and three scarlet red stigmas, which are the distal ends of the plant's carpels. The leaves are dark green colored and can be up to 40 centimeters (about 1.3 feet) These components are dried and used in cuisine as seasoning and coloring agent. Saffron has been the world's most expensive spice by weight for decades.
In addition to containing the carotenoid dye called crocin, which gives food the typical rich golden-yellow hue, saffron is characterized by a bitter taste and an hay-like fragrance caused by the chemicals picrocrocin and safranal which make this spice a much-sought ingredient for many recipes worldwide.
The growing fields are prepared by burying around 30,000 kilograms per hectare (about 26,765 pounds per acre) of manure. The use of any other kind of fertilizer is absolutely forbidden.
In August, between 500,000 and 600,000 bulbs per hectare (200 to 240 bulbs per acre) are planted about 10 centimeters (around 4 inches). The growing cycle starts with the first rains of September.
The flower harvest lasts 15 to 20 days, starting around the second half of October. The blooms are picked in the early morning, before the sun forces them open, then they are taken inside where, when they open, the stigmas may be extracted and toasted on embers of either almond or oak wood. Toasting is the crucial part of saffron processing and during this process the stigmas loose 90% to 95% of humidity and 5/6 of weight. That means that it takes 600 grams of fresh stigmas to obtain 100 grams of dried stigmas.
The dried stigmas are then packaged either whole or ground into powder, in paper bags, glass jars, or other food packaging materials allowed by the European government. The finished product must be kept in a dark, dry place.
The labels must bear the net weight, if the product is either ground or whole, expiration date, DOP logo and the wording "Zafferano dell'Aquila – Denominazione d'Origine Protetta", plus name and address of the producers.
- Production Zone:
The municipalities of Barisciano, Caporciano, Fagnano alto, Fontecchio, L'Aquila, Molina Aterno, Navelli, Poggio Picenze, Prata d'Ansidonia, San Demetrio nei Vestini, S. Pio delle Camere, Tione degli Abruzzi, Villa S.Angelo, in the province of L'Aquila. - Producers' Organization:
Cosorzio di Tutela dello Zafferano dell'Aquila DOP
Zafferano di San Gimignano DOP (Tuscany)
Protected Geographical Indications: Reg. CE n. 205 del 4.02.05 GUCE L. 33 del 5.02.05
Saffron has been cultivated since the 13th century in the Tuscan area of San Gimignano. In fact, as early as 1200, the quality of the saffron produced in this evocative Tuscan town earned such renown that it was exported to other Italian city states, such as the Marine Republics of Pisa and Genoa, which in turn exported it to Middle Eastern and African markets, like Alexandria, Tunis, Damietta, Acre, Tripoli and Aleppo.
The wealth that this trade created allowed San Gimignano’s most powerful families to build the city’s tall stone towers, which still stand to this day and represent its landmark architectural landscape.
In addition to bringing wealth and increasing commerce, saffron was used as a diplomacy tool as well by the town authorities. In 1241, when the Holy Roman Emperor, Frederick the Second, set up an encampment near the city, San Gimignano's leaders sent him 25 pounds of saffron as a gift.
Ancient documents show that in addition to cooking, the Zafferano di San Gimignano was used also to dye cloth, as a medicine and as a paint pigment. In addition the spice is mentioned in various contracts and financial documents, as well as in the body of municipal laws dating back to the Middle Ages.
Saffron bloomSince saffron was so valuable, at some times it was used as a form of currency, and its weight and quality was subject to very strict regulation from very early on. Physicians and chemists were responsible for the maintenance, calibration and correct operation of the scales used to weigh this precious spice. To this day, descendents of those experts still live in San Gimignano and bear family names such as Pesalgruoghi, or Pesalgruoci, from the word "peso", which means "weight" in Italian.
The Zafferano di San Gimignano DOP is made from the toasted stigmas of the Crocus Sativus L. bloom. While toasting, the stigma color switches from orange to the characteristic red color. Different from the Zafferano dell'Aquila DOP from Abruzzo, which can be sold ground in powder, the Zafferano di San Gimignano DOP must be sold exclusively with its stigmas whole.
Easy to preserve, saffron keeps well in glass jars, protected from sources of light and humidity. It is advised, however, to use the product within one year from its purchase.
In Italy the Zafferano di San Gimignano DOP is used to enrich the flavor of various recipes, from risotto to main meat or seafood courses, cheeses and even desserts. It is advisable to use this spice sparingly, to avoid having the flavor overwhelm that of the main ingredients.
- Production Zone:
The municipality of San Gimignano, in the province of Siena.
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