Lardo d'Arnad DOP or Lard d'Arnad DOP
and Lardo di Colonnata IGP
Loris Scagliarini - October 1, 2008



Introduction
Here we continue our introduction of Italy's 155 Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta) products.

This month we present two pork products made with the same part of the pig, but which taste different to the palate. One is the Lardo d'Arnad DOP or Lard d'Arnad DOP (in French, the language commonly spoken in the Aosta Valley region along with Italian, and the Lardo di Colonnata IGP (Lard from Colonnata IGP) from Tuscany.


Lardo d'Arnad DOP or Lard d'Arnad DOP (Aosta Valley)
Protected Designations of Origin: Reg. CE n.1263/96

Characteristics of the Product
The origin of this product is lost in the distant past. In fact, the first known written mention of it is found in a document dating back to the year 1570.

Lardo d'Arnad DOP

Despite the fact that the Lardo d'Arnad DOP can be made exclusively in the municipality of Arnad, in the Aosta Valley the pig used to make it may be grown in Emilia Romagna, Piedmont, Lombardy and Veneto, in addition to the Aosta Valley region. The minimum weight of the grown pig must be 160 Kg (around 353 pounds) at least.

Two fundamental rules must be followed when producing the Lardo d'Arnad DOP. First of all the pigs' diet must include chestnuts and fresh vegetables, and it must avoid integrated commercial feed. Secondly, during the transformation of the product, a combination of local herbs combined with a mix of spices including garlic, rosemary, bay leaves, clove, cinnamon, juniper, sage, nutmeg and achillea millefoglie must be used.

First the lard is cut into pieces, then stored in a special container called doil in local dialect. In the past the doils were made by artisans with chestnut wood, currently however, invariably these containers are made of iron or food grade plastic. The lard is covered with the spice mix, then a brine made with water, coarse salt and part of the spice mixture is added before letting the product age for at least three months.

When the product is intended to age for longer periods, local white wine is used instead of the brine.

The taste of the final product is delicate, yet strongly perfumed thanks to the spices added.

  • Production Zone:
    The municipality of Arnad, in the Aosta Valley.

Lardo di Colonnata IGP (Tuscany)
Protected Geographical Indications: Reg. CE 2004

Characteristics of the Product
The lard, consisting of the fat back part of the pork, immediately under the pigskin, is cut into regular rectangular shapes, then massaged patiently with a mixture of salt, spices and aromatic herbs.

Lardo di Colonnata IGP

The pieces of lard are then stacked one on top of the other inside marble tubs. Inside the tubs a kind of natural brine is developed ad the fatty meat softens and absorbs flavor at the same time. The product must rest and age for at least three months.

To fully appreciate the delicacy of the Lardo di Colonnata IGP it is advisable to enjoy it on its own, sliced very thinly, letting it melt in the mouth almost without biting into it. This way one can appreciate all the flavor nuances lent to the meat by the mixture of spices and aromatic herbs.

In the past this product was considered a simple condiment for local peasant dishes, but in recent times it has been vastly reevaluated and is currently considered an important kitchen ingredient, which can be served on its own, or in unusual pairings, such as with shellfish, one of the various recent, fashionably creative recipes created by Italian chefs.


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