Cold Cuts: Jambon de Bosses DOP
and Mortadella di Bologna IGP
Loris Scagliarini - June 1, 2008



Introduction
Here we continue our introduction of Italy's 155 Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta) products.

This month we present two cold cuts whose roots date back to the 14th century: the Jambon de Bosses DOP from the Aosta Valley region and the Mortadella di Bologna IGP, known in many part of the world simply as 'Bologna', from its place of origin.


Jambon de Bosses DOP (Aosta Valley)
Protected Designations of Origin: Reg. CE n.1263/96

Characteristics of the Product
The organoleptic characteristics of the Jambon de Bosses DOP, a typical ham from a specific area of the Aosta Valley region in the northeastern part of Italy, are in part defined by the traditional type of alimentation and growing conditions of the pigs from this area in the past. After spending the winter in barns, the pigs would follow the cows to the summer alpeggi, or the pasture in the highland plateaus of the Alps. Here they were fed a mixture of cereals, milk serum, and leftovers from the preparation of the Fontina cheese.

Jambon de Bosses DOP

Traditionally, after killing the pig the thighs were cut and salted, then wrapped in burlap and left to age for 18 months, first in the barn and then in the cellar.

The current procedure includes seasoning with salt mixed with spices, such as garlic, sage, rosemary and local Alpine aromatic herbs. The thighs are then left to rest for 15 days in a dry environment. After which time, the prosciutto is washed, then left to age for 12 more months in a dry, ventilated thigh.

The prosciutto is partially pressed naturally and is tied halfway along its length with a string passing through a hole made in the meat.

The slice is the color of red wine, while the outside, which consists of fat, is shining, hard and, sometimes, presents pinkish nuances. The Jambon de Bosses DOP is savory, but not salty. The aftertaste is highly perfumed, with notes of wild game.

The origin of this ham dates back to the 14th century. In fact, the oldest known document which mention the jamon from the Saint-Rhemy-en-Bosses area dates back to 1397, where it is named tybias porci, Latin for 'pork leg'.

  • Production Zone:
    The pigs are raised in the regions of Aosta Valley, Emilia Romagna, Piedmont, Lombardy and Veneto.
    The hams are made exclusively in the municipality of Saint-Rhémy-en-Bosses, in the Aosta Valley region of Italy.
  • Producers' Organization:
    Cooperativa Jambon de Bosses
    C/O Municipio Fraz. Saint Leonard
    11010 Saint-Rhemy en Bosses (AO)
    Tel. 0165780821

Mortadella di Bologna IGP (Emilia Romagna)
Protected Geographical Indications: Reg. CE n.1549/98

Characteristics of the Product
In various parts of the world the mortadella di Bologna IGP is simply called Bologna,from the name of its place of origin. It is believed that the mortadella was first made in the 14th century, a result of either a collaboration, or competition, between local monks and butchers.

Mortadella di Bologna IGP

The mortadella di Bologna IGP is made with the pork meat left over from other preparations, with the addition of the fat from the throat, which is first cut into cubes, warmed up, then washed and dried.

The meat is ground and seasoned with salt and whole black pepper. Various additions are allowed, which range from sugar to other pork meats. Once that the meat has been encased into either natural or artificial gut, the mortadella is cooked in dry air oven then cooled.

The finished product is cylinder shaped and the color of the slice is pink, dotted with well defined cubes of fat. The perfume is unmistakable and slightly spiced. The flavor is full and well balanced, thanks to the addition of the fat which sweetens the flavor of the meat.

The color of the artisanal version of this product is a deeper pink, compared to the industrial product, because of the limited use of nitrites and nitrates, which have a antioxidant effect. The range of perfumes identifiable when slicing the product is wide and differentiated, thanks also to the use of spices such as ground coriander and garlic. In some versions, pistachios are added to the mix. The characteristic black pepper grains contribute to give the product its typical aroma.

Mortadella di Bologna IGP

There are two main ways to serve mortadella. Some like it cut into small cubes, while others prefer it sliced it very thinly by slicing machine.

The mortadella is a basic ingredient in the preparation of filling for tortellini, as well as involtini (literally, 'little wraps'), stuffed chicken and turkey or veal roasts.

  • Production Zone:
    Emilia Romagna, Tuscany, Latium, Marches, Piedmont, Lombardy, and Veneto regions, as well as the province of Trento.
  • Producers' Organization:
    Consorzio Mortadella Bologna


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