Cold Cuts: Coppa Piacentina IGP
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Introduction
Here we continue our introduction of Italy's 155 Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta) products.
This month we return to Emilia, one of the Italian regions with a large quantity of typical food products, to present two types of cold cuts: the Coppa Piacentina DOP, produced in the province of Piacenza, and the Culatello di Zibello DOP, produced in the province of Parma.
Coppa Piacentina DOP (Emilia Romagna)
Protected Designations of Origin: n.1263/96 (GUCE L. 163/96 del 02.07.1996)
Characteristics of the Product
Though the production zone of this cold cut, which is made with the cervical muscle of the pork, is found throughout the whole province of Piacenza, the ageing must be done in places not higher than 900 meters above sea level. The meat used comes from pigs bred in the regions of Emilia and Lombardy .
The cervical muscle of the pork is cut at the fourth rib, and the whole piece must weight at least 2.5 kilos. The cut of meat is massaged, squeezed and trimmed, then it is seasoned with salt, sugar, roughly ground black pepper and various other spices, including among others, clove, bay seeds and cinnamon.
After a week of rest, the coppa is wrapped in intestine casing, then tightly tied with string. After that the product undergoes the first, short ageing, resting for at least seven days in a special dry room. (In the old days the coppa was hung in the attic for about 15 days during this ageing phase).
Ageing represents a delicate part of the production process, and lasts at least six months, in a humidity-controlled room at a temperature between 10 e i 14°C. (50°-57.2°F. – in the old days, peasants aged their cold cuts in the wine cellar).
The organoleptic characteristics of the Coppa Piacentina DOP are synthesized in its delicate, fine perfume, and the enveloping, yet sweet and light flavor.
- Production Zone:
The whole province of Piacenza. - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio Salumi Tipici Piacentini
Culatello di Zibello DOP (Emilia Romagna)
Protected Geographical Indications: Reg. CE n.590/99
Characteristics of the Product
The origin of the Culatello di Zibelllo DOC is rerlatively recent. In fact, the first historic document which mentions it is the 'Calmiero della carne porcina salata' ('Controlled Price of Cured Pork Meats), a 1735 document from the archives of the Parma municipality, which establish the top price for a series of cold cuts and salamis made with pork meat.
Despite the fact that the municipality of San Secondo claims that this product was born there, the original culatello is the one made in the municipality of Zibello, in the province of Parma. In addition to the two places already mentioned, the other municipalities allowed to produce the DOP product, are Busseto, Colorno, Polesine, Roccabianca, Sissa and Soragna.
The Culatello di Zibello DOP is obtained by ageing the lean muscle of the upper part of the pork thigh. The remaining parts of the leg meat are then used to prepare other typical products, such as the cappello del prete (priest's hat) and the fiocchetto (little bow). This way it is worth sacrificing one prosciutto, which is arguably the most known pork product made in the province of Parma.
The rules imposed by the Consorzio di Tutela (Protectional Consortium) establish that the pigs used for this production must be fed exclusively natural products, such as whey, corn, barley and bran. In addition the animals must be terminated at 14 months of age. The preparation of Culatello is allowed from October 20 to February 28.
The meat is first trimmed, tied and salted a caldo (while fresh), then it is energetically massaged with salt, black pepper, garlic and Lambrusco wine. Afterwards the culatello is layed in an inclined iron tub to allow the drainage of water and blood. After about seven hours, the culatello is massaged again, cleaned, brushed, then let to rest.
The meat is then inserted into a pork bladder, previously soaked in water and vinegar, so that it regains its suppleness. The skin is then thinly pierced to allow oozing. Finally, the whole is tied tightly, in such a way that the bladder seems wrapped in a spiderweb of string, and hung to age in a humid room.
Different from prosciutto, which needs fresh, dry air while ageing, the culatello does best with humidity, which soften the lean meat. It is very important to pay close attention at the beginning of the ageing perid, looking out for possible mildew. This can be avoided by periodically brushing the product.
The final shape is reminiscent of a big egg. The average weight is around 3 kg. (6.6 pounds), after having lost about 2 kg. (4.4 pounds) while ageing for 11 or 12 months. Larger culatellos are advised against, because they need longer ageing. Though, on one hand the longer period deepens the aroma, on the other, the meat tends to dry too much and lose perfume.
- Production Zone:
The municipalities of Zibello, San Secondo, Busseto, Colorno, Polesine, Roccabianca, Sissa and Soragna in the province of Parma - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio del Culatello di Zibello DOP
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