Cheese: Canestrato Pugliesee DOP e
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Introduction
Here we continue our introduction of Italy's 155 Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta) products.
This month we introduce two excellent Italian cheeses which are very different from each other: the Canestrato Pugliese DOP, a cheese aged in canestri (baskets), from which it takes its name, and the Provolone Valpadanase DOP, a product belonging to the 'stretchy' cheese family, such as mozzarella and provolone, produced in a wide area of northern Italy, from Lodi to the east, to Trento in the northwest.
Canestrato Pugliesee DOP (Apulia)
Protected Designations of Origin: June 12, 1996
Characteristics of the Product
Hard, compact, crumbly cheese made with raw, whole sheep milk of either Merinos or Gentile di Puglia varieties, the Canestrato Pugliese DOP takes its name from the bullrush baskets (canestri) in which it is left to age. The finished product is cylinder-shaped with a diameter of 25 to 34 centimeters (9.84 t0 13.39 inches), it is 10 to 14 centimeters (3.93 to 5.5 inches), and weigh from 7 to 14 kilos (15.4 to 30.8 pounds), depending on the size of the wheel.
The rind is hard, thick, brown-yellow in color and wrinkled. Inside the color is straw yellow, more or less intense depending on the ageing, and it is compact and crumbly.
Preparation
The milk is coagulated at 33°-35° C. (91.4°-95° F.) adding animal curd only. During the whole preparation process, the wheels are enclosed in typical baskets, from which they assume the wrinkly exterior, and are pressed often to eliminate all the excessive liquid.
The cheese may be dry-salted, by spreading coarse salt on the wheels, or brined, by bathing the wheels in salted water. The salting begins after two to four days of preparation and it is repeated various times during ageing, which may last up to one year.
Pairing:
The non-aged version is excellent with fava beans, raw vegetables, oil dips, pears and white wines. The aged version on the other hand, may be grated and sprinkled on pasta dishes like Parmesan and pairs well with local red wines such as Cacc'e Mmitte from Lucera, Squinzano, or Salice Salentino.
Provolone Valpadana DOP (Lombardy, Veneto, Trentino Alto Adige)
Protected Geographical Indication: Reg. CE n. 1107/96, June 12, 1996, commission
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Salami-shaped Provolone Valpadana DOP |
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Characteristics of the Product
The Provolone Valpadana DOP is part of the family of 'stretchy' Italian cheeses, which have ancient origin and are characterized by the the stretching of the curd.
The first historic documents mentioning this type of cheese date back to the Middle Ages and set the origin of this technique in the south of Italy. Because of the difficulties that peasants had to face in carrying the milk, plus the local high temperature, the milk arrived to the cheese factories with acidic flavor and unstable curd. After a few hours resting on a table, the curd tended to become 'stretchy' (filato), that is, become somewhat rubbery and created 'threads', or 'ropes', if stretched.
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Melon/Pear-shaped Provolone Valpadana |
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That's why the characteristic operation of stretching the curd immersed in very hot water, after being left to rest for a few hours on special table from were the excess liquid drains, is called 'filatura' (making the thread).
This production technique is typically Italian and resulted in the production in various parts of the country of such 'stretchy' cheese varieties, which are generically known as Provolone, Provola, Caciocavallo, Scamorza and Mozzarella.
Shapes and Weights
The Provolone Valpadana DOP is found on the market in a larger number of shapes and sizes than any other stretchy cheese. The characteristic supple curd allows the master cheese makers to apply their creativity and produce cheese with a variety of shapes, sizes and weights.
To this day, visiting the ageing warehouses of some cheese factories, it is possible to find some 'experiment' tried by a particularly creative cheese maker. The production rules includes this cheese making characteristic, indicating typical geometric shapes which may be produced in different sizes and weight.
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Truncated Cone-shaped Provolone Valpadana |
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The Allowed shapes are:
- Salami, which in cheesemaker jargon may be called Pancetta (Rolled Bacon), Pancettone (Big Rolled Bacon), or Salamino (Small Salami).
- Mellon/Pear, which in cheesemaker jargon is called Mandarino (Mandarin Orange), Mandarone (Big Mandarin Orange), or Provoletta (Little Provola Cheese).
- Truncated Cone, which in cheesemaker jargon takes the names of Gigante (Giant), Gigantino (Little Giant), or Gigantone (Big Giant).
- Fiaschetta (Little Flask)
Two types of Provolone Valpadana DOP cheese are available, the 'dolce' (sweet) and 'piccante' (spicy). Both varieties can be had in the smoked version.
The Provolone Valpadana DOP is found in stores also pre-sliced, in packages usually weighing around 200 grams ((7 ounces). In any case though, the product must mention the Denominazione di Origine Protetta, and have printed on the package the cheese factory logo and the authorization number released by the Consorzio Tutela Provolone Valpadana, the consortium which oversees and enforces the production rules.
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Little Flask-shaped Provolone Valpadana |
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Pairing:
Provolone Valpadana Dolce: Colli Orientali del Friuli Chardonnay, and Fiano di Avellino.
Provolone Valpadana Piccante: Ghemme, Primitivo di Manduria, Taurasi, Velletri Rosso, and Oltrepò Pavese Bonarda.
- Production Zone:
The provinces of Brescia, Cremona, Padova, Piacenza, Rovigo, Verona, Vicenza, Bergamo, Mantova, Milano, Trento and Lodi. - Producers' Organizations:
Consorzio Tutela Provolone Valpadana
Piazza Marconi, 3
26100 Cremona (Italia)
Tel. (39) 0372 30598
Fax. (39) 0372 457078
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