WineCountry.IT Selection – La Ciccia Restaurant, San Francisco, CA
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Though I already sang the praises of La Ciccia, the only Sardinian restaurant in San Francisco, a couple of years ago, I have to write about it again. I was there for dinner with my wife, Brigit, last Friday and, once again, I briefly regretted living in beautiful Marin County, across the Golden Gate Bridge, because it robs me of the opportunity to dine at this excellent regional Italian restaurant more often.
Though la La Ciccia is located in Noe Valley, at 30th street and Church, which is not exactly a central location, the restaurant has become a favorite for many customers, who bring their repeated business to this small, busy venue. With good reason.
Brigit and I were in Sardinia about a month ago, so the comparison between the 'real cuisine' of the island and that of chef Massimiliano Conti is firmly based on the current reality. Actually, I must admit that, though I have always appreciated La Ciccia's food since I first visited the restaurant, soon after it opened a few years back, Massimiliano's cuisine seems to have gotten better.
Chef Massimiliano Conti with wife and business partner, Lorella Degan.
As Massimiliano excels in the kitchen, Lorella manages the dining room with loving care, and makes sure that all the wines in the extensive, all-Italian list are kept available to their clients.
"Keep it simple, don't complicate things. Be humble," Massimiliano told me when I interviewed him for the first article. This is because he believes that the true cuisine of a place belongs to its people, thus he does not follow trends, but sticks to his native island's culinary traditions. "As long as you follow trends, you will never be true to your identity," he told me back then, and he sticks to the simple, honest, genuine food culture of his native land today more than ever.
The wine list includes around 170 different labels, and is obviously heavy on Sardinian varieties, including nine types of Vermentino, 11 Carignano 100% plus one in blend with Shiraz, nine Cannonau 100% and eight in blend with Carignano or Malvasia Nera.
However, other noble Italian denominations from various Italian wine regions are not missing, and wine lovers can chose from among six different labels of Brunello di Montalcino, five of Aglianico, four of Sagrantino di Montefalco, four of Barolo, four of Barbaresco, and two of Lagrein.
Wine connoisseurs can indulge in some true rarities, such as the 'Breg' by Josko Gravner, Vitoska del Carso by Benjamin Zidarich, Muristellu by Cantina di Mandrolisai, Pecorino di Offida by Clara Marcelli, Gaglioppo 'Riserva Duca San Felice' by Librandi, Tazzelenghe delle Venezie by Tenuta Beltrame, or Moscato di Sorso Sennori 'Tres Montes' by Cooperativa Romangia.
The wine drinker who feels more comfortable with better known varieties, will find a selection of Prosecco, Chardonnay, Pinot, Sangiovese, Chianti, or Barbera, all selected for the favorable quality-price ratio.
First of all, Massimiliano Conti gets certain original ingredients which are made only in Sardinia from there. I am talking about bottarga, fregula, malloreddus, pane carasau, cuore di tonno (tuna heart), prosciutto di mare (cured tuna, a real rarity), and sapa (a syrupy sweet sauce obtained by cooking fresh grape juice, known also as cooked must): that is, ingredients which are found exclusively from importers dedicated to bringing Italian regional products which are far from mainstream. To these exclusive ingredients chef Conti adds the best seafood, meat and produce he can find on the market, by making his purchases personally from trusted fisherman, butchers and specialty farms.
Over time, I have brought, or sent over, friends and acquaintances, Italian producers visiting the Bay Area and American wine distributors from out of town, and everybody has always raved about the food and thanked me for having introduced them to La Ciccia.
On this Friday, Brigit rushed me to get to the restaurant by 5:30 on the dot, so as to be the first customers in and get the best table. I pooh-poohed her, saying not to worry, that it wouldn't fill up so fast. She bet me that five tables would be filled within 15 minutes of opening. Sure enough, she was right. In fact, more like eight tables had filled up within that time, so popular is this cozy cult favorite dining spot on a Friday night.
Some of the excellent dishes prepared by chef Massimiliano Conti at La Ciccia.
We start by sharing the Calamarusu Arrustiusu (Oven Roasted Monterey Calamari Drizzled with Basil Oil) hors d'oeuvres, which we eat with pane carasau sprinkled with extra virgin olive oil, of course imported from Sardinia, salt and rosemary. Often, Conti prepares some extra delicacy, which is listed neither on the menu, nor mentioned by the waiters among the evening specials, to please the true lovers of his cuisine. That's how we got to enjoy an extra delicious hors d'oeuvres of small, tender steamed asparagus resting on a thin layer of extra virgin olive oil and dusted with bottarga.
Some of the excellent dishes prepared by chef Massimiliano Conti at La Ciccia.
Brigit continues with Pasta Longa cun Cavuru (Linguini with Pachino Tomatoes, Scallions and Local Dungeness Crab), while I get the Tonnu con Olia (Pan Seared Ahi Tuna Served with Sardinian Olive Sauce). Both entrees are delicious and we enjoy swapping tasty bites. In addition, we get a complimentary taste of the mouthwatering Propiseddu in Umidu (Baby Octopus Stew in a Spicy Tomato Sauce) with Herb Flavored Mashed Potatoes on the side. We pair the meal with a bottle of 2008 Nuragus di Sardegna DOC S'elegas by Argiolas.
Some of the excellent dishes prepared by chef Massimiliano Conti at La Ciccia.
Though we are not big eaters and have to ask for doggy bags for part of the food, I cannot pass up the Prattu de Casu Isolanu (Selection of Three Sardinian Cheeses Served with Three Varieties of Imported Sardinian Honey), which I enjoy with a glass of the superlative dessert wine 2004 Moscato di Sorso Sennori Tres Montes, by Cooperativa Romangia. Brigit, who has a sweet tooth compared to me, orders Semifreddu de Mendua (Almond and Amaretto Semifreddo Drizzled with Quince Sapa) and sips some of my Tres Montes nectar with it.
If you happen to be in San Francisco, don't miss the opportunity to dine at this one-of-a-kind restaurant. You will not regret it.
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